Andystoy19

I am not sure how you bypassed the seat belt but all I do is latch the belt before I get in and sit on it when putting around the yard and put it on when trail riding etc. 🙂

If you are going off road buy the DPS.🙂

Hope they finally fix it, sounds like the battery may have caused a cascade of issues that took out the stator. Have them check the voltage regulator to make sure it is within spec. If it failed high it may have caused the battery issue and took out the stator, not sure why the starter went out? Good write up.🙂

Hard to diagnose over the web, switch the diff to unlocked and have someone stand behind and see if you have an axle turning if yes you may have a broken axle, usually breaks inside the rubber boot closest to the wheel?🙂

Welcome to the forum, from the link you provided for the light it says that it is 783W/12=65.25 amps. The older 2019 and previous Defenders and some later versions had a 650 Watt charging system which means your light is too big (pulls too much amperage) for this charging system. Even if you have the newer charging system at 850 watts you will be using more amps than are available after you power the fuel pump, ignition and whatever other accessories you have on at the time. This will result in the light using reserve power from your battery as soon as you turn it on. The charging system doesn't reach full output until 4000 RPM, so at any RPM below that you will have serious battery drain. If you decide to continue the install anyway you will probably have to install a much larger battery or a second battery and hope that the reserve is enough so that the lights don't go out at night and you can recharge the battery sufficiently when the lights are off. The only place that I would consider (IMO) hooking that light up is at the battery and that is providing that the wiring is rated to carry 65/70 Amps, (heavy enough guage wire you can look this up or maybe its shown in your wiring directions). Did you have a fuse in the wiring when you tried it if yes what size was it? There may be additional information in the build section that will be helpful? Good luck with the install.🙂FWIW.

My SWAG is that it needs to have the gear lash adjusted? Did you check to see if the differential has oil?🙂

Check out the builds section for good information for each step of the process and yes there are many 30" tires that fit the stock rim.🙂

Likely water in the gasoline, try and get a sample off the bottom of the tank and put in a clear glass jar. If the fuel has ethanol in it it may have absorbed some condensation while it was stored. If you want to inspect the tank you can get access on the passenger side of the engine compartment there is a large cap on top the tank that can be unscrewed and will pull the fuel pump and filter sock. This shouldn't be necessary unless draining the tank and putting in some fresh fuel doesn't work?🙂

The gearbox housing has 11 screws M6x45, 10 screws M8x45 and 2 M8x65. Start by removing the M6 first, than the M8x45 and lastly the M8x65. Separate the two halfs by using two flat blade screwdrivers to gently pry them apart, there may be dowels (alignment pins) so go carefully so that you don't damage the gasket surface or the dowels. Make sure you keep track of where the 2 M8x65 came out from. There should be no other items attached to the gearbox prior to trying to split it.🙂

Your best bet is to go to the builds section and read those, I also have a 2019 Defender XT Cab HD10 with larger tires and tune and so far no major problems other than I broke my front axles in an unusual stuck situation and the cab version does not offer HD axles stock and the aftermarket is limited.🙂

I have an EPI clutch kit see the builds section and Dalton has one out for the Defender Cab XT HD10. Whether springs or springs and helix the clutch(s) primary and secondary need to be taken apart, there is no adjustment like on a mountain sled clutch.🙂

Rear tail lights are on F16, 10A, rear brake lights are on F13, 10A and the head lights are on F11, 20 A in the fuse box that is under the front panel on the hood. If the fuses are good than the wiring may be good and not chaffed to the metal somewhere? Did you check the bulbs? If the bulbs are burnt I would check the charging voltage when the engine is running to make sure your voltage regulator hasn't failed. Charging voltage should not be above 15 Vdc at 4000 RPM.🙂

Check on the winch for a model number like S4500? and contact superwinch.com to see if they can provide you with the needed parts?🙂

When you turn the key to "on" you should hear the fuel pump come on for about 2 secs, if no check F5 fuse under the front hood it is a 10 Amp, replace if blown, if this corrects the problem good if not you will probably need to replace the fuel pump or find out why it doesn't come on when you turn the key on?🙂

The VIN sticker should be under the glove box on the right front side of the vehicle. If that one is gone and you had it registered it would be on your registration card. The dealer and BRP should have the VIN on file if you bought from a dealer? If you bought it second hand you will need the name of the previous owner to get it from BRP. I take a photo of the VIN # etc. when I get the vehicle that way I can reference the photo when buying parts etc.🙂

There used to be a recommendation that all new belts were washed with soap and water (in the sink or dishwasher with a good rinse to remove the soap) to remove any residue left behind from the moulding process. I still do this with all new belts but recently saw a video from Ultimax that said that washing was no longer required. He definitely recommended the break in procedure to allow the rubber to set before going full power. Cleaning the sheave surfaces to remove all belt dust and residue with a scotchbrite pad is something I do whenever I have the belt guard off followed by blowing out the belt dust with air and wiping the sheave surface with a clean cloth that has break clean or something similar on it to remove any remaining belt residue.🙂

You might have replaced the tie rod end but did not realign the front end. You will have to adjust the new tie rod end to the correct length (toe in 0" to +0.2") so that both front wheels are parallel to each other and the steering wheel is centered. To check toe in measure from the center of the machine to the same place and height on each rim or tire. The tie rod end has an adjuster built into it and can be screwed in or out after you loosen the lock nut. Be sure that you have enough threaded contact area left when you are done and tighten the lock nut. Check the A frame on the damaged side you may have bent the lower arm or both (upper) which moved everything back causing a misalignment. If uncertain how to do this take it to your dealer or an alignment place.🙂

The brake light will come on if the brakes aren't released while riding. You might try bleeding some brake fluid at each caliper and make sure the calipers release enough that the wheel turns freely when jacked up. If the brake pedal doesn't move it might be the master cylinder (jammed) if the brake line from it to the front calipers is not damaged. Check the rear calipers to make sure they are free, it might narrow down your problem?🙂

Good job and looks good, trial and error results are fine.🙂

The diagnostic section in the manual describes troubleshooting with BUDS, there doesn't appear to be a list of codes that you could see on the guage although there might be a message? Buds will be able to clear the code after so that you can see if it reappears again?🙂

A couple of things that will cause limp mode: overheat, low oil pressure and possibly detonation. If you are not getting a check engine light, low oil pressure light or over heat I would call EVO? You will most likely need a diagnostic tool such as Buds to check your codes in this case?🙂

I forgot to mention the winch has a large knob on the end of it (passenger side) that can be used to freespool the line by turning it about a quarter of a turn, if the knob is not completely engaged the winch won't pull but you should be able to pull the line out freely. Turn the knob to the engaged position for winching in or out?🙂

Its a complicated question: If you have a volt meter start checking for power at the winch when you have someone hold the pull or release switch, if no power in either direction it could be a loose connection, bad solenoid, blown fuse or bad winch motor. If you don't know how to use a voltmeter take the machine to a dealer or ATV/UTV shop. The Defender has two fuse boxes: fuse box one near the battery and fuse box two under the front hood. If its a factory wired winch it may be on a thermal? link which opens with excess current and closes when it cools off, I believe its under the dash, behind the key and the removable switch panels.🙂

Check out the builds section for ideas. The defender has a decent suspension for road and mild off road use. I have used Elka shocks on an Outlander 1000 XT (stage 1) and liked the improvement there. My defender XT has the stock shocks with a mild lift (1.5") and the springs cranked to maximum for 15 1/2" of clearance at the front skid plate on 30" Cryptids. No road riding but mostly bush trails and mud holes with muskeg. If you are more of a high speed trail rider you will want lighter tires and less aggressive, Otherwise you can call SuperATV, Elka, or any of the aftermarket suppliers to see what they recommend. I recommend a clutch kit with the taller and heavier tires but many are running without? EPI, Dalton or Adams?🙂 Enjoy the new ride and try it first you may like it the way it is?

Check what you need to run your air mattress pump first than size the inverter to slightly exceed the demand required. For example volts x amps= watts and a kilo watt is 1000 watts. It would probably be a good idea to idle the engine while inflating just to make sure you don't draw down your battery too much. The easiest would be to get an inverter that plugs into your power port, that way it is on a fused circuit and can be stored out of the way.🙂