Andystoy19

In the 2019 Defender XT Cab there are two bus bars one under the dash just above and to the right of the brake pedal and the second one in the middle and towards the front of the roof panel. You can access the roof one by removing the screws that hold the black metal panel. The under dash bus bar is extremely difficult to access if you have the heater option unless you are a contortionist? In one of the 2020 Can Am commercials I believe the under dash panel may have been moved to the front of the machine under the plastic panel for much easier access, nothing mentioned about the cab bus bar so I would guess its in the same place center and front of the black panel on the roof, right where you would expect a rear view mirror to be mounted in a car.😉

For those who are not sure if they are in Park, I noticed that mine will have -- until I do the "butt shake" than you hear the click of parking gear engaging and the dash light will show P.😉

In Canada we see the "G".😉

Good information, I wasn't able to find the schematic for your A/C engine HD10 on the online parts but I suspect that you could get a 2020 Shop manual supplement which will show all the new parts for the A/C compressor, condenser, oil filter change etc. I agree that the retrofit is not possible for older units because I suspect your engine has a longer crank stub etc. for the A/C pulley. If someone wants the A/C the cheapest route will be to trade up?😉

You could put in a power disconnect either keyed or manual that is in a more secure location. You should be able to get one at most automotive or marine stores. In the mean time you could disconnect one of the leads at the battery? This should prevent the other person from driving away with your machine. At a later date the dealer may be able to reprogram the system with "BUDS" to a new key?🤔

The HD 8 will push snow just fine just don't buy the biggest plow you can find. I have mounted snow plows on Can Am quads as small as the much older 400 and they pushed snow well but the blade was smaller, the 650 and up push and blow snow fine as well. The only place a quad has a bit of a problem pushing snow is if the snow is packed and drifted and is more than a foot deep. Make sure you test drive the machine in low and high range to see if it has any drive train problems, this will give you an idea if you like the performance?😉

I found the 2019 XT cab enclosure in the 2nd lowest item on the online parts list Defender series, 020 , 03 09. The part number is 520001681, its called a round grid and retails for about $20cdn. Be sure to check with your parts person to confirm this is what you want before you place your order? FYI😉

I noticed that your machine is a 2020, if it has the HD10 it now has 10 more HP (82 vs 72) than the 2019 HD10 and the CVT clutch both primary and secondary have been recalibrated for the extra power(torque). The primary spring is the same as the 2019 but the primary clutch levers are heavier to provide more belt pinch (control over rev with more power). The secondary cam and secondary spring are both different so the shift out (shift ratio) of this CVT system is completely different than the 2019 and previous models. Don't expect the same results when installing the taller tires on the previous models. After market clutch kits tend to change the primary spring, the secondary spring and the cam when installing larger and heavier tires and a few may change the clutch levers to compensate for additional HP.🤔

The "park locking gear" has several teeth (3) on it that engage a gear on the transmission that have to line up (mesh) perfectly before the parking lock gear will drop into position immobilizing the transmission gear that prevents the machine from rolling. The slight rock or "butt shake" while holding the lever in park allows the slight misalignment of the gear to move enough for the teeth to engage. This is completely normal and no adjustment of the shift linkage will change this. If you have a problem of the lever not aligning itself in the console with the gear you are selecting than an ajustment of the shift cable can be made to correct this. The shift cable is a stiff wire that is enclosed in a metal tube that is held in place with clips so it is possible that it may move if it wasn't secured properly from the factory. If you parked your machine on a slope you will find that it is very hard to get the machine out of park and may require a real hard pull on the shift lever also causing cable movement. The 2020 XT cab now comes with a parking assist brake which I have installed in my 2019 as a retrofit, You can hold pressure on the brake pedal, engage the parking assist mechanism and than put the lever into park, The parking assist mechanism holds brake pressure until you release it and prevents the the parking lock gear from binding in the park position because it isn't holding the weight of the machine on the two gears. You can see the parts list and a description of the process in the build section under my name.😉

The first place to check is your local canam dealer, the online canam parts does not not show the heater option but the shop manual does show the louvres separately so they should be available.🤔

I use the can am side mirrors, although they are small and pricey they do have a built in swivel so you can fold them back against the cab if you need to. I chose these because I also have the can am head ache rack, pictures are in the build section. Others on here have chosen aftermarket outside and inside mirrors and hopefully will provide you with some input. My guess is your center mirror will provide limited clarity with your setup?😉

The picture in the shop manual shows two buttons at the top of the guage, the left one is labelled with an M for mode button and the other one on the right is labelled S for Set button. The BRP symbol is between them? Hope this helps.😉

As long as the boots aren't torn and didn't pop off I would work them back into position. Those are a crimp style clamp so there may be some movement in deep snow or mud.😉

There is no trough, the rock sliders fit tightly against the body molding and protect the bottom of the plastic as well as the outer edge. If you install them after there is some damage to the plastic there may be some tiny gaps?

Rudy you are correct, I got an email verifying that, thanks.

I agree, but the can am ones might be a good addition for your machine, since you already bought and installed the tube. So far I am happy with the stock full skid plate (plastic) that came with the machine and the can am aluminum sliders that I added, I believe they come stock on the XMR.

I installed the halo locker front differential kit about a year ago and it works flawlessly. Makes a huge difference from the visco lock. Hi Rudy, I watched a couple of their videos including the install one but have a question. Do you have to fully stop to engage the electric locking device on the halo locker?🤔

Looks like the tube type rock sliders provide reasonable protection from the side but not much from the bottom, see my pics in the builds section under Andystoy with the 2" lift and 30" tires. The side pictures show the can am rock sliders installed with the larger fender flares. The rock sliders provide real good protection under the edge of the cab when sliding over a tree or a rock and a bit of protection from the side. They fit snuggly to the chassis and are easy to install. Maybe you can install them in combination with the tube style?🤔

Go down to the local nut and bolt store and see if you can find a "star washer" I am not sure if that is the correct terminology but its a stamped one piece washer that looks like a star and has sharp edges on both sides. Install one on the inside and one on the outside if you have room this should prevent the light from slowly changing angle?🤔

There are several options on the net, the halo locker which replaces the visco lok front end appears to operate similarily to the Smart Lok. Once you replace the visco lok you can lock the front end with a switch on the dash. I have not seen this one operate other than the U tube video. The torque locker and pin locker are other options that will appear if you search for can am differential lock? I do not know if anyone makes anything for the rear diff as the gear boxes from the factory may be different and it may be more difficult to do? FYI

Stock machines with stock tires have reported top speeds of up to 70 mph, if a stock machine with 32" tires could reach 50 mph (indicated) the corrected top speed might be about 61 mph in your case at 5700 rpm? In my opinion that would be as good as you can expect for the reasons I stated above. Reported speeds will vary slightly as well because of elevation, flatness of terrain, temperature etc. A naturally aspirated machine loses about 3% per thousand feet of elevation so a machine at 3300 feet is about 10% lower on HP than a machine at sea level. The shop maual says 7000 RPM is where the engine makes max power. In my case with 30" heavy tires I reached 50 mph indicated (58mph corrected and 2000' elevation) on a long run that might have been slightly down hill, that is why I am researching after market clutch kits to see if I can delay my upshift a bit and allow the engine RPM to increase a bit for the same speed which will reduce the belt slip and belt temperature a bit as well. The machine will become much more responsive with a good clutch kit than it is now with stock clutching. If you still have the stock tires and rims switch back to them and see if your top speed increases along with RPM as others have reported, if yes than your machine is running well, the tires changed its ability to reach a higher top speed.😉

I was chatting with a knowledgable parts guy at the dealer the other day getting some info on potential clutching changes for my machine and I asked him if he knew what the difference in low gear ratio was between the Defender XT and the XMR? He couldn't find the gear ratio but found that the gearboxes are different and the cost difference is big with the XMR being the cheaper one. This might suggest why the XMR has a solid rear diff like the Outlander for example and the Defender being more of a utility machine has the unlocking diff option to protect the grass etc. around the house. The best person who might be able to answer your question would be to ask someone in the shop who works on the machines to see if the XMR can be upgraded to an electric rear diff lock? I did ask about the Smart Lok front diff that is available on the XMR but not on the Defender XT and it appears you can buy the parts to do the upgrade but they are way to expensive, so if I wanted the option for locking the front diff I would probably choose one of the aftermarket models?🤔

Welcome to the forum. I don't know about the rattling sound, try to put the unit into 4x4 mode and see if it does the same thing? The thermostat should be fully open at 190F and the fan is set to come on at 205F and turn off at 198F so that puts you into a normal operating range. Check the antifreeze fill bottle and see if the cap is on correctly. There is an overtemp light on your dash and may even be a beeping sound to catch your attention, which I haven't heard yet? The gas tank is equipped with inlet check valve that lets air into the system as you use fuel and lets air out if the pressure exceeds 1.1 psi. On my outlander quad I get a sound that sounds like letting air out of a balloon when you pinch the neck. If I ride the quad when it is hot out this sound comes on almost as soon as I stop and baffled me for quite a while until I loosened the filler cap and made the connection. I don't know if the Defender is similar but something you can check? Enjoy your ride.🤔

Two things happen when you change tire diameter, the increase in height of 5" changes the final gear ratio and the increase in tire rotating weight increases the load the CVT sees as it tries to accelerate the machine. If you did a drag race for a short distance between two machines: one with stock tires and one with the taller tires you would see that the taller tire machine is slower and cannot reach the same top speed as the stock tired machine. The stock 27" tire would travel 84.78" in one revolution, the new 32" tire would travel 100.48" in one revolution. That means that your effective gear ratio is about 18.5% higher so right from engagement the CVT has to compensate by starting off in a higher gear, to better explain; in the days of the 4 speed transmission you are always starting out in second gear (effectively). Since the CVT dosen't have gears to select it stays down in the lower diameter of your primary clutch longer. The addition of 7 lbs. of rotating weight per tire (7x4=28 lbs/7=4 hp) adds another 28 lbs of load that the CVT has to compensate for, so the CVT does this by staying down lower in the diameter of the primary clutch. The additional rotating weight makes the system react similarily to one that has 4 Hp less. In summary the CVT system compensates for the change by staying lower in the primary resulting in a smaller contact area for the belt compared to a stock machine resulting in more slippage and higher belt temperatures. The driver has to apply more throttle to start and maintain a given speed so the engine RPM remain lower and the top engine RPM cannot be reached because the CVT is compensating for the additional load. The only solution is to change the "shift ratio", which is the ratio of the engine RPM and primary clutch shift versus the resistance of the secondary clutch to allow upshift is to change the springs and helix in the CVT system. EPI performance, Outlaw and Airdam clutches have clutch kits based on tire diameter and intended use (trail riding vs mud, rocks or sand) that change the shift ratio to control belt slip(temperature) and allow engine RPM to be more balanced vs the load on the CVT. I have contacted EPI and Airdam and they will respond to your questions and recommend a kit that should improve the performance of your machine. The primary clutch (connected to the engine) usually gets a different primary spring which can affect your engagement and a different spring ratio that affects the final opening (when the primary clutch is fully shifted out) and the secondary clutch usually gets a helix with a different angle to help control upshift and back shift and a new spring that helps the system react better to the increased tire diameter and rotating load. The clutch kit guys do not easily give out start and finish rates on the new springs or helix angles because they consider that to be proprietary information. If you do purchase and install a kit, please post it in the builds section along with your comments of what you like or don't like about it?🤔

Combustion temperatures on 2 stroke and 4 stroke gas engines and diesel engines in the combustion chamber are well above 1200'F depending on load conditions. It is not uncommon to see the exhaust next to the head glow various shades of red especially at night or low light conditions. I looked up a color chart for different types of iron and this glow will start to happen at about 1000'F and keep getting lighter and brighter as the temperature goes up. The Defender does not appear to have an EGT sensor so the engine temperature will be controlled by the ECM, the injectors, engine knock sesor, air temperature and cooling system. The ECM is programmed on the rich side to help keep exhaust temperatures in check especially at WOT. The two stroke engines have always had a temperature concern they always ran the best just before they seized. During the carb days some of us ran Exhaust probes especially if we were running an aftermarket pipe. The Skidoo engines would not tolerate temperatures above 1200 F for more than a second or two before you burned a hole in the piston. If you are concerned about the exhaust temperature near the engine starting a fire you shouldn't be as manufacturers typically install an aluminum heat shied to protect anything that could be flammable. On the other hand if you are driving around in deep grass, hay, or other flammable things that might accumulate on top of the engine it would be a good idea to blow that area clean after a ride with an air hose. You can get stick on foil backed insulation to put on the underside of the cab near the hot spot of concern or you can get header wrap insulation that you can wrap the pipe next to head to keep the temperature inside the exhaust system. I have not used either.🤔