Andystoy19

I have the 2019 Defender Cab XT HD10 and I installed the Cryptid 30" tires on it right from new, first drive at home I noticed a similar vibration especially at low speed, had the dealer shop foreman ride around with me in their yard and he told me it was normal. Since than I have driven the machine more and don't even notice it now. Is it normal, probably?🤨

My wife sowed one from vinyl but it was difficult to keep it tight so that it didn't come loose and start flapping. We used a 2" overlap that has a draw string in it inside the cab, the area that was a problem was between the hinges on the top, will have to find the cover and do a few mods?🤨

You can see my post under defender builds sound and insulation, I didn't think it was much of an improvement. There were some posts A hunt to remember and another member who felt that there was an improvement in reducing noise in the cab models.🙂

I found 10 zerks (grease nipples) on the rear suspension 4 per side on the A arms and 2 on the sway bar. I found the same number on the front suspension. Did I miss any? I did not look for any zerks on the front U jts on spline.🙂

I have the Monster FI reflash and will update my post in a week or so in the builds section, so far it has been a favorable mod.😉

My shop manual covers 2016 Defender Series HD8 and HD10 engines with electric differential lock and without. The 2018 Defender Series Supplemental neither the schematic nor repair procedures show or reference a reverse chain. I know that the XMR does not come with a locking rear differential option and that the gear box is different, it has a lower low and can be bought with the Smart Lok front differential since 2019? There may be a different shop manual for the XMR series that would be worth checking? My manuals do not mention the XMR anywhere?🤔

Hi Jimmy welcome to the forum, we may not have all the answers but we try and find as many as we can, good luck with your Defender.🙂

I read it as Hi, Lo, Hi, Lo, Hi, Lo release S and turn off key.🙂

Finally got around to changing from the removable winch bracket to a more permanent one. I didn't like the fact that the winch stuck out too far behind the back wheels and I couldn't use the hitch at the same time. I cut out the pieces from 1/8" plate steel, drilled the holes for mounting to the back of the Defender and for the guide in front of the winch. I took the pieces to the welder and he tig welded them together for me. Looks like a factory piece, I spray painted it with black enamel and installed it on the sxs. Here a couple of pics and it even fit without modification. Nice and high and closer to the back of the frame, hitch can be installed or removed and license plate relocated to the top of the headache rack.

I haven't done this on my machine yet but are you holding the "S" button down until you have finished the 3 light cycles, than release S and turn off key?🤔

The shop manual shows the following: pin 1 brown/green wire, pin 2 Ground or black wire, pin 3 brown/gray. If you have a plug that contains 3 wires described that should be the correct group that connects to the switch on the dash? I read somewhere that if you replace the speedo clutster you may need to go back to the dealer for them to initialize the clutster to your machine using "Buds", their diagnostic system?🙂

According to the 2018 Shop Manual Supplement the "Maintenance Required" message comes on every 200 hrs. Did you happen to have 200 hrs. on the engine when the message came on? Good to see a procedure for the machines that have a one button guage.🙂

I bought a box of Noico 80 mil foil backed sound proofing matt with the aluminum colored backing on Amazon. No problem with the product it cuts, and attaches as adverised. If you were to apply it inside as I did you can get the black backing. I wanted to apply the product inside the engine bay but there were too many things in the way and that would be a pretty big and difficult job. I discovered a removable panel inside the cab, you can remove it by pulling the 5 push pins. It is located right behind the center seat and with careful manipulation you can pull it out towards the passenger side. The passenger back rest comes off, it is held in place on top by two rubber grommets and when you pull towards the front they pull out allowing you to remove it. My drivers seat moves forward about 3" so that gave me just enough room to work behind it. The removable panel gives you access to the front of the engine; you can see the front driveshaft through this opening. It is obviously there if you need to access the front of the engine so you don't want to block this access. I applied the Noico matt to the back of the removable panel so that it faces the engine, hoping the reflective material will reduce the amount of heat coming into the cab. Picture one is the panel with sound proofing attached. I put the panel back into place and it will fit although it is snug. Picture shows the removable panel behind the center arm rest and seat belt. Step 2 was to apply the sound proofing to the cab interior behind the seats. This is no small task either because of the uneven surface, a few obstructions and many nooks and crannies. I made sure not to cover over any fasteners or push pins that may be needed some time down the road. Picture 2 shows the completed job that kinda looks like a patch work quilt. The sound proofing is installed top to bottom about 1/2" off the floor at the drivers seat and even on the inside of the battery cover. The good news its mostly covered by the seats and its behind you. There were may holes and openings that were covered so this will reduce the dust etc. from coming into the cab. I used an audio sound analyzer internet app on my cellphone that wasn't calibrated but did show changes in noise level etc. so it is a relative indicator of noise level at best. At idle in P at 1300 RPM I got a 4 db decrease, good start but at 2000,3000, 4000 and 5000 RPM there was very little if any reduction from the readings before the install. This was disappointing but may indicate that the noise resonates throughout the cab from the frame etc. The cab itself is not solid and is a bunch of removable panels that are held in place with push pins and the odd bolt. I hope the heat soak from the engine provides better results but that will be subjective. In summary, I don't think I would do this again knowing what I know now.🤔

BEARING RELUBRICATION How often should I grease my bearings, and how much grease do they need? FOR STARTERS, note that most sealed bearings come pre-greased from the factory with a 25%-35% grease fill. This is all the grease the bearings will ever need, because the relubrication interval (explained below) is longer than the expected life of the bearing. DON’T JUST GUESS. It can be tempting to give the bearings a pump of grease each day, or to pump until grease comes out from under the seals. However, this effectively destroys the seal’s ability to keep contaminants out of the grease; and too much grease “churns” inside the bearing, generating resistance and leading to rapid heat build-up. FREQUENCY: The accompanying chart shows approximate relubrication intervals. Start at the bottom by choosing your speed; follow the line straight up until you meet the curve that matches your bearing O.D., then go straight left to see the relubrication interval for your bearing type. AMOUNT: To find ounces, [(OD in inches) x (width in inches) x 0.114]. To find grams, [(OD in mm) x (width in mm) x 0.005]. (You can right-click and open the image in a new tab to see it full-size.) FOR EXAMPLE, suppose your application has a 6209 ball bearing, running at 1,750 RPM in a clean, smooth machine for 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. A 6209 bearing has a shaft diameter of 45mm, an OD of 85mm, and a width of 19mm. Using the chart and the formula, the bearing only needs 8 grams of grease every 10,000 hours. If your grease gun delivers around 1.35 grams per stroke, that means the bearing needs 6 strokes every 13 months; you could average it out to a stroke every 8 weeks or so. When greasing a bearing by means of a zerk, make sure the zerk and the grease gun nozzle are clean, and if possible, make sure the zerk is always covered between greasings. Otherwise, you could be pumping dirt and contaminants straight into your bearings. I don't want to start a war but this is an exerpt from a bearing manufacturer with regards to greasing. I have never had to regrease a bearing on a quad or sxs, but I don't put on the mileage alot of folks do? I have owned quads since they became available after the Honda trike "Big Red". On the boat trailers I give the "grease buddy" one shot in the spring and one in the fall per bearing and have not had a failure? On a truck one shot per zerk or just enough to see the boot (seal bulge slightly), no problem with tie rods or ball joints etc? On suspension and open bushings etc. one shot is usually enough to displace the water, grease etc, once in summer once in the fall. Just like lubricants there are a huge range of opinions and since you own the vehicle you make the choice that works for you!🙂 Mcguire Bearing Company

The defenders XT come with a 4500 series winch and the machine weighs1500-2000 lbs. so it will lift a deer, a moose, a bear an elk etc. no problem if you rig a snatch block to a tree. If you install your own winch I would suggest at least a 4000 series. Even the 2500 series winch on the ATV will do the same but you may have to tie the back of the machine to another tree because the front end will lift with a moose. The bad news you still have to do the skinning yourself.😉

Hi Jeff, the difference in battery drain is in the ACC position your engine charging system is off so the total drain of up to 7.5 Amps comes from the battery. With the key on position if the engine is running you get some charging from the charging system even at idle. If the key is on but engine is not running I believe there is a battery saver that kicks in and shuts off all power (after 10 minutes?)until you reset the key. If you decide to use the the accessory terminal connection under the dash make sure you check both positive terminals with a volt meter or test light to see if both are" key on hot" or one comes directly from the battery. I have not used that connection in my machine because in the cab model I have a similar connection just above where the mirror would be which I used for tieing in my front and rear led lights. In my case I believe that those were key on hot only. If you want to run your stereo only when the engine is off (or running) you could bring a wire directly from the battery which would be hot all the time, not much different than using the accessory position but again if you use the stereo only with the engine off the drain is on the battery. Perhaps someone else will chime in with their experience and there should be several posts in the build section or elsewhere where others have powered their stereos. On the older machines the OEM batteries were 20AH and on the later models they are now 30AH so better but some members went to dual batteries or a much larger battery?FYI Good luck.🙂

Good to hear that you found the problem.🙂

I haven't wired anything to the key ib ACC position so I will have to let someone else help you with that. It's good to see that the system has an inline fuse, how many amps is it?🤔

The last picture is the under dash buss, made for connecting accessories(accessory terminal strip), one terminal will be the common or ground(black), one terminal will be always hot from the battery(red), the third terminal will likely be key on (hot). The fuse for the buss is F10 under the front plastic panel and is 40 Amps. Always check polarity with a volt meter prior to making connections and it is a good idea to remove the black battery cable when working in a tight space to prevent accidental shorting to ground and blowing the fuse. The two DC outlets (cigarette lighter) are on a 20 Amp fuse F12 and there is a second DC outlet on a 20 amp fuse on F14 in the front under hood Fuse box called fuse box 1. My advise is make all your connections at the terminal strip with the correct size eye that fits the bolt, make sure each connection (accessory) you attach has its own fuse of the correct size that is easily accessible. Never use crimp connections as they are very susceptible to corrosion and may become intermittent. If one of the accessories malfunctions, shorts out it will blow the 40 Amp fuse and everything that is on that circuit, so when it comes time to find out which one you have to remove each accessory until you find the problem. Do you want your stereo to work only when in the ACC position or on when the key is on Run position key on? The key switch is on a 10 Amp F8 in fuse box one near the battery, never wire anything to this circuit, if you blow it your machine is dead? Buy a fuse puller and an assortment of fuses just in case you blow one on the trail. FYI, good luck.😉

Hard to tell from the video, but since you have the switch out of the dash you can identify which wires have power in the 2WD vs 4WD and eliminate the switch completely by passing it and see if you have 4WD when you should have if yes, than it will most likely be your dash switch. There is a 4WD indicator switch on the gearbox that shows when you are in 4WD when the actuator moves the mechanism to engage a small lever actuates the indictor switch which should feed back to your dash switch showing 4WD engaged. I don't have the schematic to show which terminals it comes from on either switch? Good luck.😉

The defender max wheel base is longer and the machine will high center more easily because of that, if break over angle isn't that important to you, no problem. As far as length of the machine I don't see a problem on the trail more so on what you use to haul it with and storage etc.?😉

If you don't have the "Smart lok" front wheel option than there are two things you can check: The 4WD indicator switch may be defective as in poor contact internally or loose wires. The second is the 4WD actuator which may be defective or have loose wires. The shop manual has procedures for checking each but difficult to do over the internet. If you have power from the dash to the 4WD indicator switch on the transmission than that leaves the switch on the transmission or the actuator itself. Both those items would require a trip to the dealer for a warranty claim and replacement parts? You could check to see if the actuator is engaging 4WD but you have an indicator switch problem but that would require jacking the vehicle up and blocking it safely so that you could see if the front driveshaft turns when you engage 4WD, I suspect it doesn't since you said it didn't appear to work on the trail when you needed it?🤔

If you haven't had much experience with these rivets here are a few pointers: Before drilling out any rivets make sure you have enough replacement rivets plus a few extra. This fastener is unique in that you can remove it and replace it and have the same clamping force after the repair as the original rivet had from the factory. Rivet sizes are measured in two ways: the first number is the drill diameter number that the rivet can pass through eg. 1/8" or 3/16" and the second number is the length of the shank which relates to the length of grab that the rivet can hold. Rivets on the can am are aluminum with a nail in the center that pops when you pull on it with the tool at the same time it folds over and grabs the material. Larger diameter rivets have a larger nail which requires more force to break the nail and more squeeze on the handles of the setting tool. Rivets can be bought with a black color or straight aluminum and you can by the larger flange (head) usually designated as LF in addition to the other numbers eg. 3/16 x 1/2 LF. You can different sizes of rivets at hardware stores, industrial supply, building centers etc. Just make sure they are the right ones. You can paint the silver ones black with a shot of quick dry spray paint. The easiest way I have found to remove the rivet is to drill out the center of the head or flange with a sharp drill bit. Use a bit that is about 1/16" larger than the diameter of the rivet, center the bit on the nail hole and drill until you feel resistance. This will be the broken off nail that remains in the shank for strength. It is not necessary to keep drilling deeper and if you do, you risk going off center, enlarging the material and the hole you want to use for resetting the new rivet. If you use too large a diameter bit for drill out it may spin the rivet before you drill off the head making it much harder to remove. If this happens use a wood chisel or something similar to wedge under the edge of the head. If you hit the nail before the head pops off you can use a wood chisel etc. to pry it off. Once the head is off, take a punch that is the same size or slightly smaller than the shank of the rivet and give the part remaining in the hole a quick tap, the shank will pop out the other side. Count the number of rivets you remove and retrieve the ends that you tap out so they don't wind up lodging against something that rotates causing damage. The drilled off head looks like a washer and could be used for backing if the hole size isn't too large. There are a number of different hand riveting tools; the cheapest has a fixed head, another one allows you to rotate the head to fit easier in tight spaces and the third is a pneumatic which I prefer in the larger rivet sizes. Take the rivet and install it in the correct guide in the hand tool. The hand tools usually have 4 or 5 diameters for the different rivet diameters, make sure that your tool has a big enough guide to handle the rivet you need to install. Put the nail end into the guide; center the material over the hole you are going to use, put the shank of the rivet through the hole, press against the material and squeeze the handles. Smaller rivets may pop with one squeeze larger ones require you to reset the tool by releasing the handles and pressing the guide against the material, the second squeeze usually pops the rivet. The attached picture shows a rivet in the hand held correct guide, a new rivet with the drilled off head on the shank on the box, a swivel type hand held riveting tool and a pneumatic one in the box. FYI😉

First oil change on 2019 Defender Cab XT HD10, 27 hrs. and 100 miles in about 10 months. Oil was slightly off color, a trace of black around the magnet in the plug, the center was still all clean and nothing exciting in the filter. I used Can Am full synthetic 0W-40 engine oil change kit which contained 2 1/2 qts of oil, a new filter, 0 ring for the filter cover and two new washers for the oil change plug one aluminum that fits this machine and a copper one that fits older/other models. The dealer had the kits on sale so still pricey but handy for someone new to the Defender and all in one tidy box. Since I have a two years remaining on warranty I will use the Can Am kit for one more oil change. I will do the front differential (75-90) and the gear box as soon as I get more 75W-140 for the gear box. I tried to reset the service soon message using the procedure in my post above but I am not sure if it reset or not as it was not displayed at these early engine hours.😉

It looks like you have two tabs that have to pop out, try and pry gently with a small flat blade screw driverfrom the front of the panel first? It is also possible that they rotate to lock into or release from the locked position?🤔