Andystoy19

Good to hear that you have the problem resolved and are back up and running, not sure why your update didn't appear in this thread?🙂

The ITC system is a 3 part system: TAS (throttle accelerator sensor), ETA (electronic throttle actuator) and the TPS (throttle position sensor). The ETA opens and closes the throttle plate, the TPS monitors the percent open of the throttle body and the TAS is part of the accelerator pedal module. I haven't worked on these but the gas pedal will have a wire going to the engine compartment, check to see that the wire is properly connected so that it is able to send the correct signal. I would wiggle the connection and if it appears loose, make sure that the connector is clean and plug it back together. The ECM uses the TAS signal to open and close the throttle plate and the TPS info is used to provide the proper fuel mixture. The engine speed sensor sends the RPM info to the ECM to manage the idle etc. This is a bit above my pay grade and why I suggested a BUDS scan which should point to the problem sensor or part of the system to check?🤔

I am not familiar with any aftermarket Can Am diagnostics and I don't believe you can get the BUDS system unless you are a dealer. The vehicle will flash the code on the display if it is active but I have not found a table that shows what the digital code refers to so the fact that you have an active code is helpful but not necessarily useful for diagnostics unless it points you to the sensor that has failed or is malfunctioning? The system will reset on some codes but the important codes will require BUDS to clear or reset? Perhaps someone has come across a code reader like those that are sold for cars if so chime in?🙂

Sounds like it could be a TPS (Throttle position sensor) or an engine speed sensor but a BUDS scan will point you in the right direction, probably cheaper than replacing parts to find it?😉

Have you had your "buds scan" yet, if so did it bring up any codes? How about the Speedo acting erratically?🙂

Have you checked your operators manual, it may explain the message there. Smart lock uses inputs from different sensors to determine how much bias it needs to apply to each of the front wheels, so it may have detected something that was outside its parameters. My 2018 Shop Manual Supplement does not cover the Smart lock system.🤔

If you're getting exhaust fumes into the cab when driving my guess is you have an exhaust leak at the front of the engine. The forward head on the engine is only a couple of inches from the back of the cab. There's a inspection panel in the lower rear part of the cab that is held in with push pins and is not air tight, it can be removed to work on the engine. Time for a trip to the dealer, it's a warranty item that Can am should repair asap.

Sorry to hear that you had problems when you got stuck but you also said they fixed it for you. That was last fall and this week you have another problem that you are unhappy with because you can't get service because of a back log at the same dealer. The problems you describe will likely require the dealer to run BUDS to diagnose whether you have an ignition problem, ECM, spark plug, injector problem or possibly water in the fuel (ethanol is known for attracting moisture) from sitting since last fall. Your 5 year warranty dosen't guarantee you a spot at the front of the line so unless you can find a dealer with a shorter lineup or provide you with a loaner, I am afraid it is what it is!😟

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There was a thread on here about oil changes, I changed my front diff and engine oil at about 30 hrs. to get rid of any casting junk or metal particles, the gearbox is next but I need to get more 75w-140. One of the other threads is under the Engine heading, first oil change. Since you purchased a new machine you may want to do it sooner than later.🙂

My guess would be that you are correct they should fit as advertised, however, I would make sure that you can return them if they don't fit? When you get them lay them side by side and see if they are the same length, spline diameter etc. if yes they should fit. It would be interesting to hear what you saw when you compare them vs stock?🙂

The info on line is at this link https://can-am.brp.com/off-road/ca/en/shop/for-sale/parts-iframe.html you can toggle back and forth between years and compare part numbers, the parts you are looking for are under front suspension? They also list premium half shaft kits for the Defender 705401937 and 36, one is L and one for R, I don't know what the difference is between Premium and Standard? Good luck with your search, I know you are interested in aftermarket but I have no experience with any of those suppliers. There may be more than one half shaft fitment for the Defender which is a bit of a surprise?🙂

I can't help you with the fitment of aftermarket axles, I am hoping to be able to stay with stock.🙂

The battery charges right off idle but dosen't reach full charging capacity until 4000 RPM, I doubt that the sound is electrical in nature but it may be the rad fan or the fuel tank vent especially if you were working the engine hard and the fuel tank started to warm up; it has a pressure vent that opens and on my Outlander it sounded like a kid playing with a ballon when you stretch the neck. I never heard it when underway but I heard it often as soon as I would stop or shut off the engine. If it quits when you open the gas tank cover you know that it is the vent, normal but noisy?🤔

I checked the Can am parts and it appears that the voltage regulators are the same number for 2019 and 2020. 710005842, let us know if your replacement regulator is a different part number.🙂

Sorry to hear that you had a voltage regulator problem, I wonder if it is different than the previous ones (850W VS 650w) charging system? This is the first time I have seen that problem posted on this forum so I don't think its been a big problem with the 2019 and earlier machines. It sounds like the regulator permitted a very high charging voltage that damaged the battery. The normal voltage should be 12.5v to 15v maximum depending on engine speed and the state of charge of the battery. When you get your battery and regulator replaced it would be interesting to see what voltage you see at the battery with a voltmeter at idle and 4000 RPM, it should not exceed 15 volts. It might also be a bad ground somewhere check the various grounds to make sure none are loose or damaged??🤔

I usually spend some time on the Can Am parts web and compare part numbers between different years to see if things have changed when I am researching Can Am or after market parts. If no change in Can Am part numbers than I know there hasn't been an update so the previous years will fit?😉

I have about 3 hrs. on the tune now, some in the snow and now out on the road. I didn't do as much bench marking as I would have liked before I decided to get the reflash in February so much of the update is about how the machine feels (subjective) as opposed to an objective test such as quicker by x number of secs. from 0-50 mph. This tune is for 91 Octane no methanol fuel and 2000' and up in elevation. The engine starts and idles like a stocker, it has not displayed any check engine lights, faults or codes. Before the reflash if I went to WOT at 2500 RPM the engine would pull up to about 4600 RPM and than climb to about 6000 RPM on top end gradually. Now if you go to WOT throttle at 2500 RPM the engine goes to about 6100 RPM and the clutches have to do the work from there. The reason I use 2500 RPM is to reduce belt slippage in the primary when the belt has the least contact area. The machine has picked up some top end, maybe +/_ 5 mph although I haven't been back to the area where I first ran the stocker at about 50 mph indicated (55 mph corrected) and 6000 RPM. I have seen about 86 kph(54mph) at 6100 RPM on the speedo, corrected speed would be 60 mph. The engine is very responsive from part throttle to WOT it runs smoothly and it would be hard to tell it has been tuned. Some of the things that changed are the reverse speed limiter has been raised so you no longer get the factory stutter, the rad fan has been programmed to come on sooner and cycle around 175F (the heater still puts out plenty of heat), the torque limiting programming has been changed, the rev limiter has been increased above the factory set 8000 RPM to allow some over rev in low range when you are to the pin, as well as the fuel and ignition tables. All in about 40 parameters have been changed but most of them are proprietary so if you decide to go for the reflash you can ask Steve for more specifics. The limiting factor now is the stock clutching which holds the engine RPM to about 6100 throughout the shift range. I will get around to doing a clutch kit eventually where I would like to get about 7600 RPM max RPM in hi range. (Max power is 7000 RPM in the manual with stock tune.) This will allow the engine to get to max power quickly allowing the machine to accelerate quicker and become more responsive throughout. I had the machine out in March in about 2' of settled snow spring snow, I was amazed at what the machine could go through at WOT (low range @ 6100-6500 RPM) breaking trail I was able to move forward without hanging up although I did see some marks of the skid plate dragging. There were rooster tails of snow off the front wheels and the back ones as well, unfortunately I didn't get a picure since I was driving. You can get additonal HP for the Defender with heads, cams, exhaust, turbo etc. and you can get a tune that will work with your changes. Bottom line is I am pleased with the tune and would do it again. For more information go to the Monster FI website. I have no connections or interest in the company.🙂

Looks good, now you have to put it to work. I used a light adjustable hitch that can be used front or back.☺️

Sorry to hear about the broken axle, was it the front or the back? Where did it fail, a picture would help? I don't think it should happen on a stock machine ever but once we start making mods like bigger tires and lift, things change. The angles for the u joints increase especially if a wheel drops into a hole. I have both mods as well and a reflash so I hope drive train failures are not in my immediate.

I own a 2019 XT enclosed cab and can't compare it to a non cab model because I haven't driven one but I don't think the 200 lbs, of extra weight make a big difference in performance. Since 2019 the cab model comes with bigger diameter springs and it rides quite nicely, not much body roll or bottoming out. Have a look in the builds section to see what the cab model looks like with larger tires and a bit of a lift.🙂

Good to hear that you are up and running, the fuel pump/regulator should put out 51 psi +/- 1 psi, unfortunatley I can't find a code reset procedure for the check engine light so it will probably mean a trip to the dealer to be reset using BUDS.🤨

Hi Jim, the only other pictures are under the defender build section with my post on the 30" tires, as I recall fairly straight forward, other than I chose to cut the plastic mud shield into two and install on the ends and sides to prevent mud from splashing up on the rad. Good luck with the install and I use it more than I thought I would.🙂

Are you planning to drill through a plastic roof or the metal bar, not sure what your looking at or the type of machine? If you post a pic someone should be able to give you advice?😉

Try lubricating the pivot points (bushings) with a silicone spray or something similar, you might be able to get some grease in there with a grease needle?🙂