Andystoy19

As all of the above, start with the speed sensor.🙂

Its all good thanks for the update.😉

Good to hear that you are happy with Buds, I checked into buying the package but was told by the seller that there was $120 per year licensing charge and I am having trouble justifying that additional cost even though I have 7 units I could use it on. Interesting that you feel you have a better bottom end after correcting for tire size. I know that will correct the speedometer and perhaps the Ecm will be able to provide better timing and fuel based on the new info but does not change the base program. You should be able to add a bit of initial timing but that is limited to a couple of degrees as well. It's my understanding that reprogramming the base program can be done by folks who are able to get into the base program and make line by line changes, such as Monster Fi and others which requires reflashing the Ecm. As far as clutching that is strictly mechanical and requires making changes to the primary and secondary such as changing springs and or helix to change the shift rate to better suit your mods. I have a call into a friend who has worked on the Brp equipment since 1996 to make sure I haven't misstated anything about Buds or it's ability to make changes?🤔

In your link the picture shows a picture of a bearing on a shaft (steady bearing) these were used years ago and are still used today on drive shafts that are long and have high torque. For example not used on pickups but used on trucks that are larger and have a large change in drive shaft angle. The short drive shafts on the defender shouldn't require a steady bearing and should be close to balanced and correctly phased from the factory. IMO I need to correct my previous statement where I said my guess it was a loose cv joint on the right side, it should say left side if it is on the drivers side. If you can raise the vehicle and block it safely with all four wheels off the ground you could put the vehicle in 2 wheel drive first to see if you can still hear the noise if not put it in four wheel drive and do the same. You can turn the steering from full left to right and back to see if the noise changes, this may help you determine exactly where the noise is coming from and you may see movement on the driveline (vibration) from the defective component. The stock tires and suspension should not be a contributing factor to the noise and vibration, I changed my tires to the 30" Cryptid tires and they have a noticeable vibration at low speeds on pavement.🙂

My guess is you may have a loose CV jt. on your front right axle, do you have this vibration when in 2 wheel drive only, 4 wheel drive only or in all cases? I would not be a fan of installing a steady bearing on either drive shaft. Did you stay with stock tires or have you upgraded to larger or heavier tires?🤔

I suspect that most of them are made in the same country and possibly in the same factory with different brand names to help marketing. The more info that is on the box the more likely that you are getting some quality. For eg. most list lumens but that is meaningless to most of us. They also list watts, this allows us to determine what type or strength of led is being used: watts/12=amps. Amps is the load the light will draw on the charging system. The standard charging system produces about 50 Amps. maximum at 4000 RPM or above. Sometimes they list the led type Cree or Philips which are recognised brand names or copies of them. Cree leds are usually 3 watt and some Phillips may be as high as 5 watts. If the type of led is not listed than they are likely cheap knockoffs that are 1.5 watts or less and not worth buying. 120 watts/40=3 watt leds. A combo light bar has spot leds in the center and flood (diffused led on the sides) producing a light which illuminates a long ways ahead but also lights up the sides of the trail and closer to the vehicle. My combo light bar )20" dual row 120w and 8 combo per side with 24 spot in the center) lists beam distance of 426m or about 1400' about 3/8 of a mile which is plenty of distance in uneven terrain. The box may also show an IP 67/68 which suggests that it was built to a certain spec with respect to water resistance, wiring and connection quality etc. Hopefully this info will help you decide on what will work for you.😉

I changed the gearbox oil at 38 hrs. It had some discoloration and the magnetic plug was covered with iron particles so I think it was a good time to drain them out. 1.5 litres of 75w-140 and the center hole just ahead of the back axles.🤔

Yes the manual is indexed with each major component and it usually has a troubleshooting section as well as how to reset any component that requires Buds to reset. The supplement is set up the same and includes all the new updates and additions from year to year. ☺️

The service manual is a 2016, there is a supplement that takes you up to 2019 that is about 1/5 the size of the manual for a small additional charge.😉

You're right about the roll pins, so far I haven't, needed to disassemble the secondary on a quad or sxs but I expect to be installing a clutch kit soon and I remember reading about them in the service manual. I haven't had a problem with the rollers but read that occasionally they fail. Hopefully your next repair is years down the road. ☺️

Thanks for getting back to us, good to hear you found the problem. ☺️

If no check engine lights etc. Probably normal, see other posts on here.😩

Before taking everything apart take the machine for a short drive and watch your tach, engagement should be about 1750 RPM +/- on a stock machine. If you are close than the chance you have a mechanical problem with the primary is less. If the belt squeal is at engagement you will likely find a problem with the primary clutch gripping the belt. The belt should be near the top ofthe secondary sheave at rest, if it is sagging or drooping and not at the top of the secondary than you most likely have a problem with the secondary spring or clutch buttons. If you find water in the belt guard you will need to dry out and clean the parts before deciding to reinstall the original belt or replace?🙂

Most belt manufacturers recommend that new belts are broken in before you put them through heavy use. They recommend running the vehicle through different RPM's under light load conditions to allow the belt to warm up slowly, stretch and adhere to the taper of the clutch faces of your machine. If you put a new belt on and you are in a bog or pulling a load the belt will slip more under full power and may glaze on the sides because of excessive heat from slipping resulting in a belt with a lower coefficient of friction and a tendency to slip more at any load. If you are going to take the belt guard off, take the belt off and have a close look at it to see if it is glazed or has been burnt (smoked) by applying power in a near stuck situation in high range. It will have circular burn marks on the edges and possible delamination of the top of the belt. If the edges of the belt have changed color it may have been over heated. Check the sheaves for black streaks of rubber indicating slippage and clean this off by using a scotch brite pad and air or water and soap to clean both sheave faces. You can use the scotch brite pad to clean both sides of the belt as well and wash it in hot soapy water to remove belt dust etc. air dry prior to installing again paying attention to the directional arrow on the belt. If the belt looks normal upon inspection than a closer inspection of the primary clutch spring, fingers (the fingers must be free to move on their pivots) if one or more are stuck or sticky it will affect how the clutch grabs the belt on engagement. The black rubber streaks will usually be on the primary sheave next to the shaft indicating slippage upon engagement, little streaks are normal a lot indicates major slipping? Check your belt guard seal to make sure it isn't kinked or broken allowing water to enter the belt guard. The suggestion to break in a new belt and take it off and store for a spare is a good one. I wash all new belts with soap and water and use a scotch brite pad on the sides to make sure nothing is sticking to the new belt from the factory. Rinse the belt completely before air drying. If you think this is too much housekeeping thats fine but the belt is the most important part of the power train in my opinion. Let us know what you find.

Not much to go on but I suspect that you are using Hi range even in soft or uneven conditions, this can contribute to belt slip, premature wear and squeal. If you are on flat ground and the squeal still happens I would take a close look at the primary spring to see if it is not broken and at the same time blow out and clean both the belt surface area and the internals from belt dust. If the primary looks fine have a look at the secondary spring for breakage or a broken button? Any chance you got water into the belt case? Good luck with the diagnosis but 3 hrs. on a new belt is definitely not acceptable.🙂

I believe that a lot of the noise comes up through the floor and even the dash but I didn't want to remove the plastic skid plate to do the bottom back corner of the cab and the floor from underneath yet?🙂

Good point, I have some of the insulation on the engine side but I don't expect to try and get 100% coverage because like I said before I believe that the sound may be from resonance. There will be a small reduction in heat transfer and dust for sure. 🙂

The two most common problems with the DPS appear to be low battery voltage (as you mentioned) and internal over heat from excessive use and maybe the hot temperatures that you ride in? If you have already checked your battery voltage at idle (12.6 vdc) and at about 4000 RPM (14.6 vdc) if the battery is fully charged than your charging system is okay. Check the ground to the DPS as a poor ground will cause problems. Does your engine RPM display properly in your guage? If the RPM becomes erractic it may affect the ECM which provides input to the DPS. If your battery/charging system checks out and the voltage at idle is not below 12 vdc than I would still check the system ground but I would suspect that your electric power assist motor is getting hot (especially if the message doesn't appear until you have been riding for a while). The system reduces the amount of assist you get until the temperature drops down enough to allow more assist. If the DPS hasn't failed completely (no power steering) you may have an assist motor that has a problem and over heats prematurely. Since you returned the unit to the dealer for the same problem when on warranty I would plead my case with the dealer and see if he can get your DPS repaired by Canam good will on warranty? Another check would be to raise the front end off the ground and blocked safely, start the engine and slowly rotate the steering from center to left and center to right and see if the wheels go lock to lock without obstruction or change in steering effort, if yes the mechanical part of the steering is good, if no you may have a problem in the steering box, the the ball jts. linkage etc. Good luck let us know what you find out?🤔

My understanding of the system is that the engine will go into limp mode and reduce power to save the engine. The dealer would have been able to read the maximum temperature your engine reached with "Buds" but the fact that you had the coolant boil briefly indicates it reached 212F (plus the pressure held on the system by the pressure cap to raise the boiling point of the coolant). If the engine didn't stop when you hit idle but kept running and started up without seizing would indicate that you didn't damage the rings and cylinder walls. If you are concerned about potential damage you could ask the dealer to do a compression check (if they haven't and a boroscope examination of the piston wall) before the warranty expires? Good luck with the new sxs they do have a pretty tough engine.🙂

Not much info to go on but two things come to mind: fuel or ignition. When you turn on the ignition do you hear the fuel pump start pressure up and stop? If not it may be a fuel pump issue? Do you have any codes? If you feel the fuel pump is good than you might want to remove a plug wire to see if you have spark when someone spins the engine over and if you remove the spark plug is it wet or dry?🤔

The pressure relief valve should be located right on top of the fuel tank cap (that contains the fuel pump sender and other hoses) and is the round valve that is located after the "Y". It is directional and should have a flow arrow on it so pay attention when you remove the old one. It should be as simple as pulling off the two pieces of hose and reinstalling, good luck with the replacement.😉

The fuel tank has a vent line that allows air to enter the tank (to prevent fuel starvation) and in our case if the fuel tank heats up and the fuel expands quicker than you are using it the vent will allow pressure to escape through the "vent inlet check valve". If the pressure exceeds 0.36-1.1 psi. the check valve releases the excess pressure. I am sure if you are still in the warranty period Can Am will replace it. I never bothered to replace mine on the Outlander once I found out what it was because it was amusing to watch anyone riding with me start staring at the machine when I completely ignored the noise.😉

Sorry to hear that a number of you are having problems with the AC, that sounds like a problem with the supplier of the AC parts and possibly at the assembly plant in Mexico. My first impression is that the folks at the assembly plant are not doing any leak checks after the system is charged with freon resulting in leaks that drain your system. Can Am will resolve this issue but I am surprised that they are not stepping up with the parts so that your vehicles can be repaired and back out where you can use them. I have owned many BRP/Can Am (well over a dozen skidoos and quads) since 1996 (my first Summit) and have had very few problems, mostly the odd recall. All of the issues were resolved at the "dealer level who is the first point of contact". I have to disagree that Can Am service is the first point of contact. For example I don't call GM corporate if I have a problem with my truck, I would take it to the dealer. Since AC is new to the Can am sxs I am not surprised that the dealer may send your unit to an AC shop to troubleshoot because their tech's may not have any experience with AC. BRP Care probably monitors this forum, as they do others, to see if there are customer complaints about dealer service and occassionally reach out to the customer to have them call directly. If you are unhappy with the dealer service I agree that you should call Can Am Care to try and resolve the complaint but I don't expect they will step in to over ride the dealer very often?🙂

Thanks for the reply and good to hear it was nothing more serious. The stator on the 2019 and older machines is a 650 watt and it dosen't produce the full charge unless you are above 4000 RPM so depending on your riding style you are not at maximum charge most of the time. I checked the voltage regulator part number and it is the same for the 2020 as the previous machines but I have not checked availability, price or retrofit for the 850 watt stator that comes in the 2020's and newer. Some members have added more battery storage capacity by adding a second battery of the same size 20 or 30 Amp simply by wiring a second battery in parallel and the factory add a battery kit contains more, like a diode etc that prevents the two batteries from going dead at the same time but it is more costly. Others have gone to a larger battery which will fit (in the original location) like the Odyssey which increases your Amphr rating as well as CCA. This option is a plug and play, remove the stock and replace with the larger battery, no wiring etc. This would be my choice if I felt I needed to do so. If you use your stereo day and night than adding a larger or second battery will delay the voltage drop because of the larger storage capacity but not solve it completely unless you reduce your DC amp load ocassionally to provide a top off charge or top off with a battery charger or solar panel when not in use. A simpler solution is to manage your charging load by switching off unnecesarry items to allow the battery to fully recharge. The ECM monitors the system voltage and will increase the idle RPM if it senses low voltage to try and prevent a dead battery. If I use my winch(s) I make sure all accessories are off and I run the engine RPM higher, if not in gear, to provide amperage for the winch. After the job is complete I make sure I provide sufficient time to recharge the battery. My emergency power pack is a 18ma boost pack which can easily start a dead battery situation since there is no other way to start the engine. I have used it to start a sxs and quad on different trips with dead batteries. FYI😉

I did a short review on the Monster FI reflash in the Defender builds section, its the only one I am aware of.🙂