Andystoy19

I wanted theshopmanual anyhow, so I bought it $24.50 Here is the link - https://brpmanuals.com/canam-defender-manual.htm Here is a link that one of the members previously posted, the hard copy comes with a supplement, let us know how this works for you?🙂

Sounds to me though you got a machine that did not have a pdi at the dealership. I would take the machine back to the dealer and tell him to call when its ready. At that time do a thorough walk around with the service manager if the machine doesn't meet your requirements leave the machine at the dealership and go back to Polaris. Most dealerships should have a return policy for an unhappy customer. This is my opinion only based on the tone of your post. 🤔

I picked up a carling rocker switch for the dash 10C584, its a spring loaded SPST for about $4.50 cdn but we couldn't find this style of switch that was LED illuminated. It is the same style as the Can am switches.🙂

IMO you can probably go to 30" with the springs cranked to maximum and a Battle Armor bracket lift. The tires may fit without the lift and because the 2020 has more power and a different clutch calibration (helix and secondary spring) you may be okay without any modifications in that area. In my pictures above the Cryptid 30" are only about 29" in diameter but they are twice as heavy as the stock 27" tires that came with the machine. If you don't go into the deep (mud and muskeg) you can choose a tire that is less aggressive and will weigh less putting less stress on the drive train. I do not run spacers on the front or back. I haven't had any belt problems with my setup on a 2019 but I haven't put on very many miles and am careful to use LR off road. I have ordered the EPI mudder clutch kit WE437427 and it is in the mail, I will update my build once it has been installed and I see what the results look like.🙂

My understanding is that if its a permanent code it may light up one of your dash lights like the check engine light etc. If none of those are on than it may have some codes in memory that do not display without Buds and I don't have a copy of the Can am codes and don't know where you could find a listing. If it blew a fuse when almost new (was it the 40 amp fuse which feeds the whole accessory terminal) I would suspect that it had to have been bad wiring or a sensor that is affecting how your engine performs, with the dealer 2.5 hrs. away that will be an expensive checkout trip. Let us know what the fix is when your dealer fixes it. 🤔

The 3 mode switch doesn't have a huge response but when you click the guage you will see the mode scroll across your screen, the reason I suggested the work mode is because it tones down your foot pedal response to reduce jerkiness when going over uneven surfaces. If you feel that the work mode doesn't affect the surging it may be something that requires a trip to the dealer to see if you have an accelerator code, fuel pressure etc. or if a spring or clutch button has broken in the CVT secondary? It might even be a faulty spark plug, injector etc. which the dealer should be able to find. Good luck.🙂

I'm not sure what you mean by surging? If you watch the tach do you see the engine RPM changing while you hold a constant foot pedal position? If you have the 3 mode engine switch change to work mode and see if that helps? Does your engine RPM remain constant and your clutches shift up and down causing you to feel a change in speed? If what you describe is when you first start out at engagement it may be normal and may smooth out as your belt and clutch surfaces break in? 🤔

The kit contains: one high and one low tone air horn, compressor, tubing, relay, a bag of nuts and bolts for $40 cdn. The instructions are a basic schematic which are sufficient. The kit does not include the wiring, or switch. I decided to install the airhorn kit after I installed the front SATV pinlocker kit because I knew that I could bring the wiring from the cab to the hood area through the same grommet located above the top shock and behind on the firewall. This is the same place the shift cable comes through and brings the wires up behind the switch panel and terminal strip under the dash. If you have a heater model you can create a bit more space for working with your hands by removing the 3 torx screws on the lower heater panel, 2 on the drivers side and one on the passenger side. The panel now swings out of the way to the passenger footwell. Remove 3 x 13 mm nyloc bolts one up near the steering wheel and 2 near the floor of the heater. The heater will drop down and move forward an inch or so. Remove the front grill by removing the 2 push pins. I drilled a hole near the top of the plastic radiator shroud for each of the air horns so they could be mounted in the down position. After finding a spot for the compressor under the front cross piece that the grill sits on I drilled a hole for hanging the compressor. Test fit the horns and compressor and cut the tubing to length and install on the components with zip ties. Disconnect the battery before working under the dash. Pop the switch panel out by inserting a small screw driver from the top and gently prying outwards, there are 3 catches on the top. I also took the 2 torx screws off the shifter guide on top for a better view when fishing the wires through the grommet.Fish the 14 guage wire from inside the cab to the area of the compressor, install the ends and install the horns and compressor. Zip tie the wire so that it doesn't chaffe against any sharp edges. Back to the inside where you have to connect the wires to the terminal strip where a lot of patience is required to undo the nut farthest away for a switched hot lead and the nut closest to you for the ground, install the wire ends and connect to the strip with the nuts. Prep the ends for the rest of the wiring that goes to the switch. (Carling rocker switch that matches the rest on the dash). Cut out the spot where the switch goes and press the switch into place, connect the wires replace the torx screws on the shifter and connect the battery, Press the button and it works. Push the heater back into place and connect with the 3 x 13mm nylocs, put the bottom heater panel back and screw into place with the 3 x torx screws. Reinstall the grill with the 2 push pins. The air horns and compressor are out of site and protected somewhat from the weather. Done and now you can make yourself heard!😉

Welcome to the forum, lots of ideas in the builds section.🙂

I have the same unit but so far no problem. The heater has 3 temperature components, the potentiometer (on the dash) which provides resistance changes to the heater valve actuator and the heater valve. The heater valve actuator should fully open and fully close the heater valve, if it does not it could be an actuator problem or a stuck heater valve. The actuator and valve are on the lower right side of the heater. Remove the 3 screws holding the cover to the dash and you should see the heater actuator it should rotate the valve about a quarter turn. If it does not remove the actuator (2 screws) and see if you can open and close the valve itself that should allow you to see if you have a faulty actuator or faulty heater valve. I don't know if they are sold separately. FYI.🙂

If you have DPS (dynamic power steering) and you have not hit something with the front wheels to cause misalignment than the dealer can put the unit on BUDS and reset the steering validation so that your steering wheel is centered again. If no power steering than you need to do an front wheel alignment.😉

Hi Kris, The fuel pump should put out about 51 psi +/-, check the fuel pressure if you can put a guage on the line. I suspect your fuel pump isn't up to spec.? If your engine won't crank I would suspect a battery/starter issue. If your battery is below 10.5 volts it may affect the rest of the starting system including the fuel pump so try it again once the battery is charged at 12.6 volts or higher.😉

Welcome to the forum, the 3 mode switch is eco, normal and work and changes your throttle response very slightly. I played with mine once for a few minutes and since then its been in normal mode where your machine is now. The 2019 and some earlier models had the wiring behind the dash so you only needed to buy the switch itself, pop it in and connect the wires. Eco is supposed to limit your throttle for maximum fuel economy and work mode slows the throttle input to reduce the jerkiness if you are driving over rough ground. There may be a better explanation of the functions in your operators manual.🙂

I decided to purchase the SATV pinlocker rather than the Halo locker because it was in stock and the price was better. They both appear to operate very similarily except that the SATV kit contains all the parts required when you disassemble the diff. You take out the visco lok and replace with SATV so if required in the future I could go back to Visco lok if I wanted to sell the machine for eg. Rudy has a build on here for the Halo locker and what caught my eye was that he did not disassemble the front suspension as much as the excellent video from SATV does, probably saving me some time, thanks Rudy. Raise and block the front end of the Defender securely, remove the front wheels, remove the bolt on the short arm of the front stabilizer and fold back out of the way. Take out the bolt(s) of each lower A arm and tap the arm down gently, it folds down out of the way. Remove the lower shock bolt to the A arm and raise and secure the shock(s) out of the way with a strap. Raise the remaining part of the suspension (upper A arm, steering and hub) onto your knee to find a free point where you can feel some in and out movement on the front axle, put both hands on the axle near the diff and push in and pull outwards sharply (towards yourself) to release the front axle from the differential. Rest the axle on the lower part of the frame and raise and secure the rest of the suspension out of the way. I raised the upper A arm only to the point where I could rest the inner splined axle on the frame out of the way. The same procedure for both sides. Drain the diff, remove the vent line from the diff, remove the drive shaft bolt on the front and move it back off the spline and remove the front bolts holding the diff to the frame. Turn the diff and manuever it out towards the passenger side of the Defender, this requires some juggling because it is a tight fit. Follow the video from SATV to disassemble and reassemble the front diff with their provided parts. I had a problem with the black anodized shift collar that has the four pins which provide the locking of the parts. It appeared that when the shift collar was made during installation of the pins the force caused the ID of the collar to swell slightly inwards preventing the collar from sliding over the hub. I used some Emery cloth and carefully sanded the inside of the shift collar to make it slightly larger. After many trial and error fittings I discovered the ID was too small only where the pins were so using a small round file I carefully removed only enough material to allow the shift hub to slide over the hub. I may be wrong but this should have been discovered when the kit was assembled for shipping, someone should have done a trial fit? The setting of the back lash was straight forward and I lubed all the new parts with some diff lube so nothing would be dry on start up and reinstall the drain plug. Before I reinstalled the front diff I took the electrical harness and routed it through a grommet into the cab. The grommet I used is on the drivers side of the machine just above the frame that holds the top of the front shock. If you shine a light at the right angle upwards you can see it and reach it with two fingers it contains the shift cable which is line of sight from the inside of the cab. I removed the two screws on the shifter trim and you can barely see the grommet but it makes the fishing of the electrical cable easier and provides access to the back of the dash next to the switch access, Pop off the switch access which includes the ignition key and now you have access to the under dash terminal for the power you need to tie into. The terminal strip faces away from you (use a mirror after you disconnect the battery) the nearest terminal is ground, the center is always hot (battery connection) and the keyed on connection is the third connection. You need to connect the ground to the nearest bolt and the power to the farthest bolt, The nut is a 10mm and is a nyloc with a brass insert ($4/cdn if you drop it into the heater assembly), you will be working blind with one hand in each access. I used a 10mm nut driver end with a 8mm gear wrench (you can use a small ratchet if you can see or feel that you are on the right nut) to remove the nuts install the cable ends and reinstall and tighten the nut. This part of the job was a royal PITA with scrapes, cuts and choice language. I cut into the power wire and installed a 25 amp fuse just in case; I may replace the fuse with a smaller one when I find out what size it should be. The kit should come with a fuse holder and fuse to make the kit more complete. I cut out the panel access for the switch installed and tested the switch etc, tie wrapped in place and replaced the panel access. The wire harness outside (leading to the front diff) was tie wrapped out of the way and the grommet came loose so I had to reinstall it. Slide the front diff back into place, reinstall the drive shaft and tighten the bolt. Install the 4 bolts that hold the diff to the frame, install the electric fitting to the top of the diff cover with two bolts and washers and clip the plug into place. Function the switch on the dash to see and hear the front shift solenoid working. Reinstall and zip tie the vent line. Reinstall the front axles into the diff housing by giving them a good jar inwards to seat them right against the housing. SATV has a video on how to install and check to make the axles are properly seated in the diff, if they are not you will twist off the end of the drive shaft because of limited drive area. Reinstall the lower A arm bolt, lower shock mount bolt and front tires. If you haven't already filled the front diff do so using 75-90 diff oil. I will update this post after I have tested the performance of the install in the future.

If you can find another machine that you like from another dealer get a price on it and see if it's competitive, if yes you can now tell your dealer that you are unhappy with the deal and plan to return the machine unless they offer something to satisfy you. If you can't find another machine see if your dealer will offer you an extended warranty at his cost. You are correct in that the sales guy was not honest with you, that is why I would ask for the extended warranty as I suspect it was demonstrated by some one and returned. 😉

Welcome to the retired club, didn't own a Big Red but rode with some and as the one of the original offroad machines it took you to places you couldn't get to otherwise and made some unplanned stops along the way.😉

I would go ahead and send battlearmordesigns an email or call them and get the answer from them just to be sure that it will fit, they do show it fits the 2020?🙂

There is an interesting explanation on the SuperATV website that might give you some insight on the pros and cons with small lifts. I used a bracket lift for the first (1.5") and cranked my springs to the max for something similar to a 3/4" spring lift and so far no problems but both add to the change in geometry on the axles at full drop. The defender cab ride is still very acceptable to me. As far as stability of the machine I didn't feel it changed much with the lift and 30" tires I am now at 16.5" at the front and 15.5" at the rear. See my build thread for more detail. Depending on the speeds you drive your machine at and whether you use it on road or strictly off road will help you decide how high you want to go?🙂

You now have a machine with a CVT transmission which is a belt drive, the primary sheave closes on the belt when you rev up the engine and grabs the belt resulting in the jerk, something you will have to get used to.😏

Nice pics and not a tree or squirrel in site.😉

Check with a glass shop to see if they can replace it cheaper than Can am?🤔

Depends on what you want to do with it? If you go Defender Hd8 you can choose between cab or non cab room for 3 and a cargo box, ideal hunting machine. Cab gives you a heater which would be nice in Spring and Fail. ☺️

If it restarts after you open the fuel cap you may have a plugged air inlet valve or kinked hose, if it's a pressure build up your vent valve may be plugged, both are located on top of the fuel tank where your fuel pump goes into tank follow the hoses.☺️

Based on the wiring damage etc. I think you made the right decision. ☹️

I'm not sure but there is an add on that the dealer will probably throw in with the deal, it works great I installed one in my 2019 and the part number if you need it is in the builds section.🙂