Andystoy19

Demon axle says they are a couple of months away from building a set for the Defender Cab and I suspect that Rhino might build one but no commitment so far. As far as the locking front end the SATV pinlocker (as far as I can tell didn't fail) because it broke the right side axle (on level firm ground) after the left one failed. The electric solenoid locks up very quickly and contrary to many reports I could still steer even with all 4 wheels locked up, some suggest that the vehicle tends to want to go straight ahead and not turn.🤨

Gorilla has a replacement axle for this machine but its way too pricey for me, about $1700 Cdn for the pair including shipping and tax. That is over 3 times the cost of stock axles which means I'll pass for now.🤨

Thanks I did send them an email inquiry so we will see what there reply is? It may be too pricey for my retired budget? I checked with many other after market axle builders and so far no one else makes a replacement axle and Can am premium axles don't fit this model either?😟

I installed the pinlocker front diff lock but wasn't sure if it was working but on my first major stuck job in the muskeg I found out it works. I am now looking to buy two new front half shafts since I broke the CV in the left front first (loud pop) followed a bit later by a second pop which was the right front CV. The left front wheel broke threw the muskeg and dropped below the surface (no water or mud on the surface) the cab had about 6" of muskeg against the drivers door so I had to exit the passenger side which was still on level ground. The winch (4500 lb.) couldn't pull me forward so I had to assist the winch with bumping the throttle and after a couple of attempts I gained several inches but the left front wheel was forced into the muskeg resulting in huge traction and requiring the whole machine to lift up about 20". Too much throttle found the first weak spot the left CV and while still stuck I had to continue using some throttle to assist the winch resulting in the right side popping (which was on the level ground) as the winch provided more load on the right front tire. The good news was that the front end was up enough that the winch could pull me forward another couple of feet and I drove out in rear wheel drive only.(There was no belt smell so belt slippage was minimal with the EPI clutch kit) Today I am researching the Can am premium axles 705401936(7) and the rhino 2 and other aftermarket axles to see if they will fit and how they compare cost wise. After strengthing this weak link I suppose the next will be the front drive shaft. lol.🤨

I have the monster EFI reflash in my 2019 XT HD10 Cab, there is a thread in the builds section describing my install. You can contact Steve at Monster EFI by email or phone and discuss your requirements with him, he followed up on my questions, he has Cdn and USA availability so that you don't have to work across the border. As far as how different flashes compare I did a lot of internet reading and when I contacted Steve he responded and has different options, Good luck.🙂

Thanks, you can buy the parts that you listed; 705402371 is available but no price, 715005332 is $419 Cdn and the two premium half shafts (optional but recommended) 705401936(7) $510 for the pair and I am not sure what the mud module cost is? All in when I checked in at the dealer in 2019 was about $2500 Cdn, definitely not an affordable option for me when compared to a pinlocker from SATV for $600 US/$800 Cdn. The factory installed option for the Smart lok or the Visco4Lok would be much more affordable and the Visco4Lok should be cheaper than the Smart lok but for now all we can do is wait.🙂

In the defender line up the only one showing the Smart lok is the defender X mr, none of the others show an option for ordering the smart lok which would have to be a factory option since it integrates more sensors to make it work. If someone can find the smart lok option on other models please provide the link. Thanks Looks like the 850 watt charging system is not provided on all defender models but is an $800 Cdn option on some?🤨

https://can-am.brp.com/off-road/ca/en/can-am-world/technologies/visco-4lok.html Can am is offering a lockable front visco lok diff for a few models of Outlander in 2021 but so far no mention of it in the defender line up. This is something that should have been offered several years ago for customers that go to the steep and deep where the visco lok doesn't cut it. Yes they came out with the Smartlok for the XMR which is over kill for most of us cost wise and performance wise.🤔

I saw these being used on Dirt Trax a few weeks ago and ran across them in the princess auto store on a clearance sale so I bought some they are 2" x 9', 2000 lb. working load and 6000 lb. breaking strength. They also have 1 1/2", 1000 lb. working load and 3000 lb. breaking strength.They are made in the USA and are sold under the name of Shock Straps. They have a loop on each end so you can secure the bike etc. with the loop or using the hooks, have a decent ratchet and have a red shock strap (polyurethane?) sown into the strap with a full strength back up loop to secure the load in case the shock material breaks. 2 Year warranty. You secure your quad by pulling with the ratchet until the red shock stretches some and acts as a large elastic band. When you hit bumps in the road your quad suspension compresses and normal straps can come loose or loosen and you need to stop and retighten them. With the shock strap they take up the momentary slack and keep your strap tight for the whole trip. 🙂

I replaced the yellow spring with the CAPS2 black (stiffer finish) and going from a 3000 RPM rolling start I go very quickly to 6700 RPM (+100 RPM) but the feel of the pull seemed more "revy" and not as strong as with the yellow in the original kit. Changed back to yellow and that will be the end of changing things on the EPI clutch kit. In summary, its a good kit for making the machine more responsive right from engagement (2000 RPM) all the way up the shift range(6600 RPM). Its a good idea to baseline your machine before installing the kit and after including when trying different spring rates. Without the baseline you have to rely on memory which tends to be very subjective. My machine with stock clutching was much slower responding to throttle input and lost more top end because the clutching wouldn't allow the engine to get into its max power range. The info I have is that peak torque is at 5700 RPM and peak hp is 1000 to 1500 RPM above that so at 6600 RPM I am very close if not at maximum Hp. Non of us drive our machines like a dragster but in order to get a baseline (without another machine to test against) I used 3000 RPM to max engine RPM resulting in an increase in engine RPM vs vehicle speed throughout the shift range. Hope this info helps if you are looking to make similar changes.😉

Have you read the owners manual to see if there is some sequence that needs to be followed to access or change the settings. In the 2019 and previous years when you change the switch setting the light shows up on the display on the dash?🙂

If your question is can you mount wider tires on the front rims and 30" tires all around, the answer is yes. In the builds section you can check out my thread on using 30x11 Cryptid on the rear and 30 x10 on the front. The 10's are slightly taller than the 11's and are 29" tall or slightly under. Stock rims and a small lift no rub.☺️

The driving modes: normal, work and eco are an electronic program in the ECU that works with your electronic gas pedal. The gas pedal is not connected mechanically to the throttle body, the connection is electronic. As you step on the gas pedal the variable potentiometer changes the amount of siganl going to the throttle body similar to what you would do if it was a mechanical connection. Normal mode: this is the best performance mode and is the one I use all the time. Work mode: slows down the throttle response especially if you are going over rough ground to reduce the jerkiness.I use work mode when my grand kids are driving to even out the throttle response while they are learning to drive. Eco mode: controls the the throttle response so that you get the best mileage, sometimes used when you are short on fuel. This mode will give you a slower or more gradual throttle response. Most members on here will agree that they played with the switch or guage in the newer models a couple of times and than set the switch to normal and haven't used it since.😉

I checked out the online Defender build section and it looks like Can am decided that the cab only model will be a HD8 and the Limited for $5000 more will be the HD10. If I were buying a new Defender Cab today I wouldn't buy one because it is not offered in the HD10 with the cab only and I don't need A/C in Canada but the heater can come in handy. I guess marketing has decided you buy the limited in HD10 or the cab in HD8, yet they offer the HD10 in the XT model? Thoughts?🤨

Looks good.🙂

EPI have a clutch option that might work for you, check out my thread in the builds section. 35" may require something from SATV to make the tires fit?🙂

I put 30" Cryptids on my 19XT Cab you can follow that for your machine and I am working on an EFI Clutch kit that is also in the builds section. As far as I know it should work for your lift and EPI has a clutch kit for the newer models.🙂

Epi has a good video online that shows the tools and mentions the torque values if you need them, there is a thread on here that shows where you can get an online manual. Good luck. ☺️

I bought the can am clutch spreader to remove the belt (yours may have come with the machine) as well as the clutch holder and clutch puller bolt. You should be able to find those part online direct from can am in the defender accessory section or get them from Epi or Satv after market clutch suppliers.The primary clutch requires the puller bolt the secondary does not.☺️

Under the front hood you have a 40 Amp fuse F10 which supplies the accessory power to the front roof harness, check it first. If the wiper switch is not illuminated that would indicate a blown fuse , F10. If you had the inside roof panel off check to see if the wiper motor has a separate fuse? If not check across the the bus with a volt meter or test light to see if you have power at the bus. The fuses in the front panel are under the black square box, pull the cover off to expose the fuses.☺️

My guess is that you may have been getting power from two different sources (fuses), one that powers the headlights and another one that provides power for illuminating the dash switches. Since the 2020 and 2021 have a different wiring harness, I can't tell you exactly which fuse but I would start at the panel under the front hood and if all are good also check the ones down by the battery?🙂

I am running 30" Cryptid tires, similar to the XMR and I believe you can have the tire size changed by someone that has the BUDS system so that your speedo reads correctly. I have had my ECM reflashed by Monster FI for better performance with the heavy tires and am now working on getting my clutch kit correct.(EPI Performance Mudder kit). All of these mods are in the builds section with details on each. FYI🙂

The 2021 have been announced and you can view them on the Can Am website, when your dealer will get some will depend on where he is in the queue and not all models will arrive at the same time.

The springs can be adjusted anytime and they will give you lift in addition to the Battle armor bracket if you choose to go that route. If you look at my defender build lift you will see both together. The 2x6 or 2x8 lift can and will work if you do the following, cut 1 x 36" long, one at 24" long and one at 12" long. Align one end of the 2x6" above each other(vertically) and if you need extra lift add some material (1/2" TO 1")at this end between the 1st and 2nd and 2nd and third board. Fasten the boards with a couple of nails or screws to hold them from sliding. You will need two of these; position the wooden (the highest part) lift under the metal ramp edge (to match the tire spread) and some distance forward to prevent the wood from tipping up once the front tires go onto the metal ramplift. Measure your wheel base (115.5") and if necessary add another section. ideally you want the metal ramp and this wooden ramp to be close to the length of your wheel base, as the front end goes onto the deck your wooden and metal ramp should start lifting the rear tires so you don't drag the body. Trial and error will make it work and it costs very little. The canam rock sliders are made to fit the existing plastic on the underside and corner like a glove, they are L shaped to protect the side edge and bottom edge and are easy to rivet onto the body. They aren't needed for this project if you want to save money.🙂

If you want to reduce your approach angle hangup you can place a couple of 2x6" boards on your deck of the trailer just after the ramp meets the flat trailer, have someone watch as you drive up to see if one board for each wheel is sufficient to reduce the belly drag of the machine. The length of the 2x6" boards must be long enough to raise the front end up enough until the rear wheels have climbed up the ramp high enough to raise the belly of the machine. You can add a 1x4" cross piece under the 2x6" if a bit more height is required for the front wheels. This is a trail and error fix for almost no cost.The deck lift can be screwed down if that is all you haul with the trailer or hauled loose for use only for loading or unloading the defender.😉