Andystoy19

I don't have the wiring info on the 2021 but they now have an accessory bus bar under the front hood to make it easier to install accessories and should have a key on positive?🙂

The HD10 has an electronic rev limiter so it will stutter (miss fire) if you reach that value. I couldn't find the number in the book but it is about 7900 RPM. Max power is listed at 7000 RPM in the shop manual for 2019 and previous models and maximum torque is about 5900 RPM. I don't believe you can reach the rev limiter in high range unless you break something but you could reach it in low range. Depending on your driving conditions 4000 RPM in high range would be in the normal range.🙂

Should be no problem, my neighbor uses an older outlander 500 and has no problem providing the snow doesn't get too deep before you start.😉

I have a 2019 Defender XT Cab HD10 and had a loose drain plug from the factory. Other than that no faults or codes. Some of the 2021 with A/C had problems with the A/C system, otherwise the number of problems that you see on line may be exagerated as some posters tend to post on multiple forums. Bottom line is you will have to make your own decision.😉

My 2019 had a drip from the dealer it was loose from the factory.🤨

I watched an Ostacruiser video on their 6x6 cab and they mentioned turner axles so I contacted turner axle in Houston and they will make their stage 2 axle for the Defender XT Cab for $590 US each with a 1 year warranty. This is a option to the gorilla axles if someone is interested?🤑

I suspect that customer service or lack there of is similar through out different parts of the industry. I am fortunate enough to buy all my toys and vehicles etc. new and once the warranty runs out I do my own service. I can ask the service manager or shop mechanic if I need some assistance before replacing my own parts and in return the dealership sells me oem parts at an expensive price.🙂 I do my own tire rotation on the highway vehicles, oil changes and other minor service such as brakes, bulbs or lights, plugs and filters etc. My wife took her car in for a recall and asked the service department to put her small mud flap back on that fits behind the front wheel and is held on with 2 push pins, they charged her $80 for doing that???🤨 In general the parts replacers now called "techs" who work under the supervision of a licensed tech do the work on your vehicle and get charged out at $100-$125/hr. Gone are the days of a mechanic doing the work and charging $30-$40 hr. The connection you had with the mechanic whom you talked to and explained the problem are gone also, now its service writers, shop foreman and "techs" as well as huge overhead for the show room etc?🤑

Sorry to hear about your dealer issues, I am fortunate enough to be doing business with the same dealership here in Canada for the last 25 years. Some of the staff have changed but their business philosophy is that they try their best to look after the customer. They have grown to multiple dealerships throughout western Canada but the main one where it all started is still going strong. Just recently I contacted BRP Care in Canada and had a very good response from them and the dealer. My suggestion is that you contact BRP Care in the USA and see if they will help. Keep your info simple and factual and ask for help in trying to get to a resolution? The link below should take you to a contact form that you fill out and they respond to: https://www.brp.com/en/forms/contact-us.html United States T: 715.848.4957. Good luck🤨

The frame size changes as you go larger on the ATV/SUV winches, measure the center to center hole distance and order a fairlead that matches your predrilled holes.🙂

Thanks for the info on the titan axles, I checked with S3 this morning and they do not carry a replacement for the 2019 Defender XT Cab HD10 at this time?🙂

Your picture shows two types of clutch arms (levers) the original ones that have belt dust on them and some new ones that are clean so you must have ordered a Dalton kit?? When you start the engine is the belt already engaged (spinning at idle) if so there is a problem with the primary not being open so you have a primary assembly or parts problem. I notice that the new clutch arms are a different shape and longer they sit much higher than the stock ones, they may not be for this application, send the picture and ask your kit manufacturer to help you out?🤔

Check with the dealer to see if you have the larger shocks and springs in front.(Some 2019 Cab and previous years may have had smaller shocks and springs) On my machine the coil measures about 4" across and the tube is about 2 1/2" in diameter and although I am cranked to max on the spring setting I don't see any indication of sagging or softness?🙂

The first time seems to be the most difficult but you have to hold the clutch in the air with your left hand under the top sheave (just off the bench) when you strike the puller bolt with a hammer so that the impact from the hammer will work the bottom half loose. Works better with a heavier hammer and a smaller swing. Before you seperate the two halfs take a marker pen and mark the position of the inner governor cup vs the top half and straight across to the sheave half, that way you will be reassembling the clutch with close to factory balance, once you remove the top sliding half (making sure not to loose any slider buttons or O rings) be sure to mark your primary spring holder the same way and I made sure to make a piece of cardboard with holes in it so that I put the original bolts (4) back in the same holes. If it won't come get some help to hold the clutch while you strike the puller bolt with a hammer.🤔

The front axles for this machine are 705402170R and 171L and contain some parts common to the Defender lineup but are different (longer) than the base models so the new Can am performance axles will not fit. You can buy new CV joints to repair the broken cv's but the cost is the same or more than a complete half shaft? I have tried to get an answer from Can am to see if they will provide an upgraded axle for this machine but so far no answer? Both of my axles broke at the lower CV seconds apart in the same mud hole as I tried to gently assist the winch. Jack up and block the front end of the machine, remove the 17mm bolt nuts, remove the front wheels. Remove the cutter key on each side and break the castellated nut with a breaker bar and socket. I used a 1 1/4" socket which is too big but works, I didn't have a metric one that large and didn't want to use a pipe wrench or crescent. These nuts are torqued to 184 lb/ft so it requires some effort. Place the transmission in park with 4x4 engaged to keep the hub from spinning. Remove the lower shock bolt and raise and tie the upper A arm as high as it will go. Break the (2) 15mm bolts that hold the front caliper on, remove the bolts and store the caliper on the top of the A arm. Remove the castellated nut and remove the cross bolt that holds the lower A arm in place at the hub, drop the lower A arm and pull outwards on the hub, there is just enough room to get the axle out of the hub, tug sharply on the axle to remove it from the front diff. Reverse the procedure for the installation but make sure you provide enough force to seat the axle in the differential all the way, no gap. Hint: There is no need to remove the steering or upper A arm(at the hub) or lower A arm at the body as some videos show, this procedure works well and disassembles less parts. Gorilla has a replacement axle but very expensive and no other after market premium axle is available. If someone finds one please provide the part numbers and cost. Hope this helps if you need to replace one of your axles.

The SATV pinlocker kit will provide new shims for the spider gears and replaces the visco lok without any other modifications so if someone wanted to go back to visco lok for resale etc, they could. The visco lok cartridge (contains the heavy fluid that provides additional force to the spacers) may have worn a bit to where the fluid has leaked out resulting in an open front diff.?🙂

It's about 2" round and held in place with 3 torqx screws, on the passengers side if memory is correct towards the front of the engine. the filter is an insert style be careful with the O ring.🤔

I appreciate your lack of switch space but I found that keeping the 4x4 switch seperate from the front locker switch allows me to drive in rear wheel open, rear wheel locked, front wheel open when the 4x4 is activated and 4x4 locked when the front locker is locked. On the trail I tend to run in rear open and 4x4 engaged so I have front and rear wheel drive for minor traction assist and jumping dead trees etc. and engage 4x4 rear and front for something that requires maximum traction, less wear on the diff's when turning etc. and the tires as well. There wasn't a fuse included on the pinlocker system so I wired one in wasn't sure of the correct size so I think I used a 30 Amp but it is probably too big?🤑

Same as above, the light bar needs to be anchored to the steel to remain solid.🙂

Contact Steve at Monster EFI, (check out my thread in the builds section) there is a lot more to the flash in my opinion than horsepower he changes a bunch of things to make the engine more responsive throughout the range. There are a bunch of things you can do such as cams and heads to take the HP up to around 100 without going big bore but I chose to stay conservative. Be prepared to replace the front axles as the first time I got into a hole in the muskeg I blew both lower cv's on both sides seconds apart trying to assist the winch in bumping the clutch to raise the front end.🤑

No experience with big bore engine kits in the Defender but I have the Monster EFI reflash and the Dalton Mudder clutch kit described in the builds section. Now waiting on someone other than Gorilla axle (too spendy) to build some aftermarker front axles.🤑

My thoughts are that "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" so having gone through owning every new model of skidoo summit since 1996 I have sold some privately but more recently that was too much hassle so I traded in my machine, low mileage, no damage and in some cases with extended warranty if it was offered with the Snowcheck. For the private sales my asking price was retail price at the dealer with 50% added for the cost of add ons and the selling price was usually only slightly above the retail price. For trade ins I got dealer wholesale plus a bit for excellent shape and I was able to take off my expensive aftermarket shocks if they fit the new chassis and replace the factory ones at the dealership. In Canada we have a 5% GST so if you trade you pay GST on the difference if you sell privately no one will pay you GST on your machine but the dealer will charge GST on the used machine. If I had some add ons that I could put back to stock sometimes I would sell those at 50% of cost to recoup a bit of my money. In short the money we put into add ons is rarely recouped and if we get a bit back its a bonus.🤑

Looks like I will be using the stock replacement axles 705402170(1) as the premium axles do not fit this machine and the gorilla axles are too pricey. You can order the replacement cv joints but they are the same price as the whole axle so a non starter.😔

Sorry I didn't read your first post explaining that you already had the 850 Watt Magneto so disregard that part. Check R9 and replace to see if it is the problem, if it still happens than you will have to move some of your light load off the 40 amp circuit to another circuit or only turn on the lights you need in order to reduce the load on the circuit. If you move some of the load to another distribution center (bus) that circuit should be switched and fused to protect the size of wire used and connected to your second battery, that way it won't affect the rest of your system that came from the factory. If you check the voltage at the battery(s) and it is normal your alternator is fine and you will need to manage the load better. 😟 If all else is going nowhere try this link:https://can-am.brp.com/on-road/ca/en/form/contact-us.html and I am sure someone will be able to get things moving.🙂

Sam I am not sure of what year or model of Defender you have. The 2019 XT Cab has a 40 amp fuse F10 under the front hood panel that powers the accessory output. If you have a 2020 or newer they may have changed the distribution to have easier access under the front hood. There are 2 relays in the same fuse box R3 which powers the accessories via the ECM and R9 which powers the accessories via the ignition switch. If your lights turn off when you turn the switch off you are probably wired on R9 which is located to the right of the fuse box.The inside of the cover has a diagram showing fuse positions and relays. R9 will be hot when it overloads so be careful if you touch it after your lights shut down. Can am has an 850 W Magneto kit listed as an option on the 2021 Defender XT for $809 Cdn. that would put it at about $600 US. Your dealer should be able to get you pricing and availability if you want to go that route. If you don't have a volt/ohm meter you should get one and learn how to use it, they are cheap and very helpful when trouble shooting electrical equipment. There are several settings for AC and DC which is what the defender uses.🙂

The 2020 has an updated electrical distribution system and may be slightly different than the 2019 which I reference here. Under the front hood there should be a distribution panel that contains a 40 amp F10 fuse which provides key on power to the accessories. In this same black box refered to as fuse box 1 there are 3 relays total.The second fuse box 2 is located next to the battery and has relays and fuse that are directly related to the engine operation, There are 2 relays in the same fuse box R3 which powers the accessories via the ECM and R9 which powers the accessories via the ignition switch. If your lights turn off when you turn the switch off you are probably wired on R9 which is located to the right of the fuse box.The inside of the cover has a diagram showing fuse positions and relays. R9 will be hot when it overloads so be careful if you touch it after your lights shut down. Can am has an 850 W Magneto kit listed as an option on the 2021 Defender XT for $809 Cdn. that would put it at about $600 US. Your dealer should be able to get you pricing and availability if you want to go that route. If you don't have a volt/ohm meter you should get one and learn how to use it, they are cheap and very helpful when trouble shooting electrical equipment. There are several settings for AC and DC which is what the defender uses.🙂