Andystoy19

Catching fire is unusual, have you been able to find the source? If the machine is stored out in the open it may have been a rodent storing food or building a nest? 🤔 If you are able to find the source give us an update.

After a walk around inspection I noticed a coolant leak on my machine, it appears to be from the front of the engine near the water pump T and looks like one of the Oetiker clamps either broke or loosened off because of our recent cold snap. Almost 2 weeks of -30 C during the day and some -40 C at night. The coolant bottle was almost drained, started and idled the machine no further leaking at -20C, filled coolant bottle and will make the repair in the spring when I need to remove part of the belly pan to get to the clamp. Cold weather can cause these types of issues even if you don't run the machine at this temperature.😉

Check the defender garage build section: several builds with their thoughts?🙂

Check under the front passenger seat, if not it may be under the rear one in the Max?🤨

In the defender garage there is a builds section where people have posted their builds including light bars etc, where you may find the info you are looking for?😉

If the dealer hasn't had the CVT cover off it may be something he wants to check, it could be a broken button in the secondary or a broken spring that doesn't release the belt properly but that is something the dealer may have checked??? JMO🤔

Your power won't change but your performance will depending on the tire you choose it will be heavier than the stock tire. I have a thread in the builds section about putting 30" Cryptid tires on my machine and the increase in rotating weight was huge resulting in me using low range more to reduce the chance of belt slip etc. If you ride on fairly level terrain you can get by without other changes. EPI has a clutch kit that I installed and would recommend if you ride in deeper and steeper conditions, it allows your engine RPM to increase quicker after engagement all the way to the top end resulting in a bit more top end (which you tend to lose with heavier tires) and less belt slippage. IMO🙂

I finally got word from Demon Powersports, rugged ATV parts, owned by PDI in Markham Ontario that they stock the rugged line of axles for the 2019 Defender XT Cab HD10. The numbers are as follows: PAXL 3059 RF, PAXL 3060 LF and PAXL 3067 rear axles (2) these are the Rugged ATV axles and are OEM replacement +. These may be the same as the Titan axles above?? I ordered the Heavy Duty line which are the same numbers as above just add HD or XHD (Extreme HD) to the end of the number. They didn't have the front axles in stock so I don't know how long it will take to get them.(made in China). Pricing online is about $209 Cdn for the rugged brand and $335 Cdn for the HD. with free shipping in Canada. Not cheap but I hope decent quality. I will update the post when I receive the axles?🤑

Probably not in park "as above" so an easy check is just step on the brake if that works every time you know that the problem is the park function switch or a starter solenoid. If when you get the engine to crank and it sounds normal its definitely not the battery.😉

If the back country has trees it is easy to raise the front end using your winch enough to change, repair or work on the front end. I can do the same on the rear end with my rear winch but most machines don't have one. You can also use a cut tree or dead fall as a lever to raise the front or rear end and block up the machine on either axle. You can also build a small ramp to drive up, out of rocks, dead fall etc. block up the axle and remove the ramp material and drive off after the repair. I carry a small axe, small bow saw and or a chain saw if exploring an older seismic line. I also carry a small come along that could be used to raise the machine using a tree for support. I carry an air compressor or hand pump, a small patch kit and some small ratchet straps along with a long screw driver and other tools. My most recent purchase has been "tire ject" which can be poured into the tire after removing the valve stem and air back up. I think there is a thread on here about different products. The good news is that quadding since the mid 90"s we have had only one machine get a flat that we needed to bring in a spare wheel for. We usually quad in the Alberta foothills (crown land) where there are some sharp rocks, lots of dead fall and some muskegs. Our day trips can be 60 miles long so a long way from the vehicle or help.🙂

Good description of the job (patience) and good luck with at least twice the battery life. 🙂

My SWAG would be fuel with moisture in it, resulting in fuel separation and drop in octane? If the code went away it was a temporary code which can sometimes be reset by letting the vehicle sit or disconnecting the battery for awhile? As far as fuel octane, I burn 91 Octane no ethanol fuel with no problems so far. The reason for going to 91 no ethanol is that the chance of getting water (condensation) in the fuel is reduced because ethanol tends to adsorb moisture from the air. Even if the fuel sits for awhile it loses octane but attracts less or no moisture. The higher the ethanol blend, the more likely the fuel is to attract moisture and condensation up until the point that you get fuel separation from the ethanol water mixure and corrosion and knocking starts. I know that from the factory the machines are programmed for 87 Octane as a default because your fuel loses octane while sitting in your tank as well as in the tank at the retailer. The engine is equipped with a knock sensor that will pull timing if it detects detonation. I have never heard of an engine knocking from a fuel with a higher octane because higher octane fuel burns slightly slower and reduces the chance of detonation. I run 91 octane no ethanol fuel in all the seasonal equipment as well as my boat, sleds, quads, chain saw, weed trimmers etc. not because I get better performance for the extra cost of the fuel but because I don't have to deal with the corrosion in the carburetors from ethanol fuel attracting water and forming the beautiful green slime in the fuel bowl. I have a tune that runs a bit more timing to try and get a bit more power from the 91 octane no ethanol fuel (also has more energy than 5% ethanol fuel) that you can't get from the stock program. Even with this program the ECM will pull timing just like the stock tune if it detects detonation? JMO🤔

Where have you checked for fuses under the hood? On the older machines (2019 and older) there was a 40 amp fuse for accessory power under the hood panel, but there is another fuse box next to the battery that may provide a fused power supply to the items you mentioned. The winch overload is protected by circuit breakers that reset. My guess is you have a blown fuse that supplies all those items depending upon where they were tied in but the winch should be separate? Good luck.🤔

I inquired about S3 carrying replacement axles for the 2019 Defender XT Cab HD10 and received confirmation that they now carry the Titan axle with the following numbers: Those are the correct Axles - S3-24A22 LF, S3-24A32 RF and S3-24A12 rear axles. The price is $195/each $US if anyone is interested. So far I haven't ordered them?😉

My SWAG might include a look at the VSS, engine speed sensor and the fuel pump pressure? Did the dealer recover any codes? Good luck.🤔

Here is a pic of the old and the new: up top 2017 Summit X 850, 2000 Summit Millenium, 2019 Defender, and at the back 2 1979 Kawasaki's, 440 Drifter fan and 440 Invader. Two Polaris RMK 1979 on a small two place trailer. Snow was packed and frozen about 10" in the field.

This year the ATV and SxS are getting more of a workout because of the scarcity of snow in central and eastern Alberta. With a bit of a lift and the aggressive tires I can easily go through about 18" of packed and fresh snow without hanging up(drifted) and the heater is a bonus for sledding and ice fishing when someone wants to warm up.🤨

No problem here is the link: Feel free to scroll around and check out some of the other threads that you may helpful. The defender builds section is under forums and there are 4 or more pages of all sorts of mods. Each thread has a title like the highlighted one above that allows for a quick search to find your item of interest.🙂

It is great info, and good news that you didn't bend the front frame itself?🙂

The Defender Cab is different than other defenders that is why I referred to my thread. It is likely the same as your Limited but I can't help you further if you choose not to read the thread that should explain clearly your questions.🙂

I don't have the shop manual for youe newer machine but the 2019 and previous have two fuse boxes: one down under the passenger seat by the battery and the second one in your case will likely be under a black removable cover under the front hood? I am not aware of any fuse boxes under the dash?🤔

On my 2019 Cab there is a power buss on the inside of the cab under the black panel that has your windshield wiper switch, I mounted my front and back light bars and powered them from this buss. The head liner comes off as well so you can run wires back to the rear light if you so choose. There were two switch openings that I removed to mount my light switches. The original thread was posted in Nov 2019 in the Defender builds section and updated to show the switches in April.😉

Sorry I can't help you with your question on what the wires are for but you may be able to find more info if you go on the cam am parts site and look at the wiring diagram for your specific model and year. I have the shop manual for the 2019 and earlier models so that isn't much help but you can probably order a paper maual or get access to the digital manual on the can am site for a price? There were one or more threads on here for accessing the digital manual on the can am site.🙂

My guess is you are having problems with the VSS ( vehicle speed sensor) that is located on the top of the gearbox towards the rear. Almost directly above the rear axles. Follow the wire and check that it is not broken and plugged in tight. As far as the DPS it may need a dealer reflash or it is overheating from excessive use and is programmed to cut back on the amount of assist it provides and will reset when it cools down. I don't have a table to read the trouble codes, if they disappear on their own than they may be temporary codes that reset when the vehicle sits, is turned off etc. The dealer should be able to give you some help on what is setting the code the next time you see it? Are you running tracks or wheels? 🤔

Sorry to hear about your issues: 1) The gas tank has two valves located on top of the tank (where the fuel pump goes into the tank), one allows the tank to vent if the fuel is getting hot and building pressure and the second one allows air in (your potential problem) as you burn fuel. If your tank is bulging and you get air expelled when you open the cap replace the vent valve if the tank is collapsing and you get a sucking sound when you open the cap replace the inlet valve (both are located in the plastic line). 2) The clutch system should have an indicator or message when the belt is slipping and the unit should be shifted into low gear to prevent excessive slippage. Have you seen the light or message? A glazed belt does indicate excessive slippage causing heat to build up in the belt, the belt will actually change color as it gets hotter. 3) Did the dealer check your clutches to make sure that there was no broken rollers (2) in the secondary or a binding or defective spring? Did the primary clutch engage at around 1800-2000 RPM or was it higher indicating that the primary may need a new spring or there are some stuck clutch levers? Was there a lot of belt dust in the clutch cover? 4) Grooved sheaves are an indication that the belt was running and slipping in one area for quite a period of time. Did you get water in the belt guard and continue driving it without draining the guard and drying out the belt etc? I realize that these are not solutions but things to look at when trying to find a solution, good luck.🤔